At Saga Dawa Tibetans celebrate the birth, enlightenment and death of the Buddha. In Lhasa that morning many thousands of worshippers paced briskly through the city to mass upon the lingkor weaving around the Potala. Many more sat begging for alms along the edges of this ancient pilgrim trail circling the empty palace of the Dalai Lama. A fragrant fog of juniper incense stung my eyes as I was swept along in a tumbling wave of humanity.