To: Marklin list
Subject: Tip:- Ballast K-track
Date sent: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 09:33:32
Hi All,
How many of you have put off ballasting your K-track because you wanted the ability to repair or modify your track and didn't like the idea of trying to lift that expensive track for fear of breaking it because it was glued to the base board?
I have been in this dilemma for some time now and then I hit on what is a very simple solution.
1.) First lay cork or similar underlay where you want the track to go. Paint the cork with a matt black paint, wait until dry before going to step 2.
2.) Next lay Glad Wrap (or Cling Film, which is a very thin plastic film, the stuff you use to wrap your lunch in) over the cork.
3.) Fix you track down over the Glad Wrap with screws. Make sure each track section has a track power feeder soldered to the centre rail. This will over come any glue migration into the centre rail track joiner contacts.
4.) Spread the ballast over the track with a brush until you get the look you want, don't do this to any points (switches, turnouts) they will be done in a different manner later.
5.) I chose Woodland Scenic Cement to glue the ballast down as it dries clear, flat and most important it remains flexible. Using an eyedropper I placed one drop between the sleepers on the outside of the rails and placed three drops between the sleepers on the inside of the rails.
6.) Once the cement has dried unscrew the track and carefully lift it up , then remove the Glad Wrap as it is no longer required. Put the track down and once again fix with screws.
7.) Now the points. As all my points are the high speed type (2271, 2275) I had to be careful not to get any glue on the working parts.
8.) I made up what I call ballast bricks using the following method.
9.) Using a 4mm router bit I cut long slots into a sheet of 2.5-3 mm thick ply wood or similar material. The slot depth goes all the way through the sheet of wood.
10.) Spread Glad Wrap out on your workbench then spray the slots in the wood with WD spray (water displacement spray) this will help prevent the ballast sticking to the sides of the slots.
11.) Lay the wood with the slots onto the Glad Wrap, spread the ballast into the slots. Apply the scenic cement to the ballast.
12.) When dry, carefully push the ballast from the slots. Cut the ballest brick to the length required, apply a very small amount of white glue to the ballast brick and place between the point sleepers as required. This method prevents any glue or ballast from getting into the moving parts of the point and causing operational problems.