Doubtful Sound

Our journey to Doubtful Sound started from Manapouri, a short drive from Te Anau, with a one-hour launch trip across Lake Manapouri to West Arm. This lake is surrounded by rugged mountains although on this day their tops were hidden in low cloud. By the time we reached West Arm it was raining.

We all crowded into the Visitor Centre awaiting our respective coaches. One group was doing a tour of the underground power station at West Arm followed by a 3-hour cruise on Doubtful Sound. Our group was going direct to Doubtful Sound for the overnight cruise aboard the Kay Dee II.

The dirt road over Wiilmot Pass was built in 1963 to allow access to the site of the power station at West Arm. All equipment was transported by barge to Deep Cove and then trucked over Wilmot Pass to West Arm. The workers were ferried across daily from Manapouri in launches specially designed to suit the conditions found on Lake Manapouri. Several of these launches are still operating - one on Lake Manapouri, another on Lake Te Anau.

The road wound its way through lush forest. Along the way Ian, our driver, pointed out several waterfalls, all but hidden by the low cloud. We stopped briefly at Wilmot Pass but the view was completely obscured by the swirling clouds.. However a little way down from the Pass a slight break in the clouds allowed us our first glimpse or our destination.

Arriving at Deep Cove we were greeted by our friendly crew, Dave and John. After stowing the supplies and our gear, we cast off. Once under way, we all assembled in the saloon and introduced ourselves. We were a diverse group - an elderly couple from the USA, two young couples from the UK, and Catharina and me from Australia. John gave us a quick run-down on what we could expect during our voyage. We drew straws to decide who would get the two 2-berth cabins and who would have to bunk down in the foc'sle. Catharina and I were lucky, we drew one of the cabins. John bunked down in the galley, Dave in the wheelhouse.

The Kay Dee II is a small boat, 60 ft (18m) long and has 8 berths. The twin diesel engines propel her to top speed of 7.5 knots. She was built in the mid 1960s by a retiree who planned to cruise around the world, but just as construction was completed he died and the boat was sold. Fiordland Travel bought her and has been operating her ever since.

We glided across the calm waters accompanied by the gentle purr of the engines. There were no other boats to be seen. We felt as if we were the first people to visit this remote part of the globe. The low cloud and light rain seemed to add to the mystery of the place. On either side the mountains rose sheer from the water and disappeared in the clouds.

Dave took us into Crooked Arm hoping to find the resident pod of dolphins. They appeared as if on queue, riding the bow wave. After the dolphins tired of our company we continued down Malaspina Arm towards the Tasman Sea.

As we approached the entrance to Snug Cove, our anchorage for the night, we struggled into already wet wetsuits in preparation for launching the kayaks. Once all the kayaks were launched Dave left us on our own and motored on to the anchorage. The sandflies were very hungry but, thankfully, John had the foresight to bring the insect repellent.

Kayaking on the tranquil waters of Doubtful Sound in the misty rain was a magical experience. There were still numerous small waterfalls from the storm a few days earlier. Several times, I stopped paddling and just sat there drifting, absorbed in the beauty surrounding us. The only sound was the soft, rhythmic splosh as the others paddled past. All too soon, we had caught up with the Kay Dee II and climbed back on board.

After changing, we all gathered in the saloon for pre-dinner drinks. John prepared a sumptuous roast dinner for us. We then moved back to the saloon for a few more relaxing drinks before turning in for the night.

Next morning dawned clear. Dave headed out towards the Tasman Sea but the seas were still too rough from the storm a few days earlier to venture out to the open sea.

Breakfast was a relaxed affair. Some sat around at the table in the galley, others sat on deck absorbed with our surroundings. The wheelhouse was another favourite gathering place. On one severall occasions, nine of us squeezed in.

In fine weather, Doubtful Sound was awe-inspiring. For the first time we could see the full height and ruggedness of the mountains. There were still a few rata trees in flower, their red flowers very prominent against the green of the forest.

There were signs of numerous 'tree avalanches'. John explained that there was no soil covering these mountains of rock. The vegetation built up over time, starting with lichens and mosses, then larger plants before trees eventually took root in the mat of vegetation covering the rocks. Eventually some trees lost their grip and slid down into the water, stripping all the vegetation from the rock. The process then started again.

We again were visited by the dolphins. The dolphins were actually allowing themselves to be pushed along by the boat. When Dave cut the engines, they soon lost interest and disappeared.

There were two other boats out on the Sound this morning - a local fishing boat, and the Commander Peak, out on it's regular 3-hour cruise. The Commander Peak and Kay Dee II are the only tourist boats allowed to operate on Doubtful Sound. I hope they keep it that way.

All too soon we were back at Deep Cove saying fond farewells to Dave and John, ready for our journey back to civilisation. On the cruise back across Lake Manapouri we exchanged addresses with our new-found friends.

Due to the increasing demand for this cruise, Fiordland Travel has reluctantly replaced the Kay Dee II with a larger boat of 70 berths.