The Long Unwinding Road Story and Photos: Roderick
Eime Not the shortest road to Brisbane, but a big stress bypass. Life as a motoring photojournalist, by its very nature, means highway time comparable only to that of a long-haul truckie. Schedules, timetables, deadlines. We’re on first name terms with every twist and turn of the national highway, and a few byways to boot. Normally the prospect of another Sydney-Brisbane return does little to spark the enthusiasm. That is unless you’re given the chance to make the journey in a sparkling new BMW 528i T. Now, the Pacific Highway up the New South Wales north coast is not renown as a gentle and placid thoroughfare, and is currently undergoing long overdue and comprehensive upgrading. Traffic jams, long waits, messy roadworks - yuck! The time is ripe for a major detour, and the challenge becomes making the journey on as little of the major routes as possible.
After a short break at Raymond Terrace, we would soon be bidding farewell to the uninviting stretches towards Taree with a veer left up Buckett’s Way towards Stroud and Gloucester. Apart from the occasional unhurried local and the ever-punctual school bus, this relaxing avenue is almost devoid of traffic leading to some debate over just who should be driving at this point. Our 528i T doesn’t care. It hugs the gentle curves and undulations with consummate ease, the confident Michelins never uttering even the mildest protest. At Gloucester, Buckett’s Way heads east towards the coast, with the almost deserted Thunderbolt’s Way assuming the route’s northern duties through sleepy Nowendoc to the historic rural township of Walcha. Many 4WD-borne holidaymakers use Gloucester as their staging point to the popular Barrington Tops National Park. We continue north through Rookhurst and on past Woko National Park with the imposing Vinegar Mountain as its centrepiece. Mostly, this former stomping ground of the infamous bushranger presents few challenges to our modern steed, the ABS and traction-control affording us wide margins of safety at these gentle and enjoyable highway speeds. However, as one approaches the higher reaches after crossing the Barnard and Manning Rivers, the trail narrows and tightens and begins to carry heavy logging trucks that often require generous allowances. Past Nowendoc and the road returns to a superb wide open pavement all the way to Walcha. Now is a good time to engage Cruise Control, as the 528i T installs a certain highway confidence that is not always appreciated by others.
Our upward diversion complete, we rejoin the New England Highway at Uralla, home to numerous dedications and monuments to the nefarious Captain. Time against us, from here we must travel the much trodden route to the Queensland capital. Our racetrack assignments complete, Brisbane is still asleep as we head out through outer Logan towards the spectacular Mount Tamborine region. Shrouded in a delicate pre-dawn mist, the valleys, paddocks and hills around the Albert River take on a fairy tale mystique, finally penetrated by the persistent ochre hue of daybreak.
With preserved wilderness literally at your doorstep,
guests at the Lodge can partake in any number of activities ranging
from guided rainforest walks to abseiling. We had just enough time to
join some confirmed Binnaburrans for coffee and scones overlooking the
majestic Coomera River valley. It was already approaching midday, and
we still had to make Sydney that night, so we bid a reluctant farewell,
vowing to accept our hosts’ invitation to return.
I’d advise against doing business with any of the colourful street hawkers that float, quite literally, along the psychedelic sidewalks, but the place is definately worth a visit. Out of Nimbin, the southerly trail follows the pretty Rose Hill Creek towards Lismore. Detour to Tuncester, then Casino and you have an uninterupted passage to Grafton along the lightly traversed Summerland Way. Unless you have your heart set on visiting the temple at Woolgoolga, the bypass through Glenreagh and Nana Glen makes for a considerably more relaxed leg to Coffs Harbour.
After a bowl of thick pumpkin soup and crusty
bread at the Cool Creek Cafe
we’re ready for the last deviation via Bowraville to Macksville, through
the luxuriant green dairy pastures and forests west of Nambucca Heads.
Our last event of note on this memorable meandering was the rescue of
a wounded Night Jar, left for dead on the dark roads just outside of
Macksville. Fortunately the extensive W.I.R.E.S. network provided us
a contact in town and we were able to continue our final, if somewhat
mundane leg, down the lovingly avoided Pacific Highway into Sydney.
|
||||||
Friday
dawns as we glide up the Newcastle Freeway, golden rays tinting the mists
lining the picturesque Hawkesbury River. The 528i T barely notices the
modest burden of camera gear and luggage as we make the numerous ascents,
the silky five-speed auto occasionally opting for fourth to maintain speed
on the steeper passages.
Loping
through the lush pastures into Walcha, we stop to visit the impressive
Langford House, once a stately rural mansion and now home to Hilary Oates
from where she maintains her small herd of famous miniature horses.
When
through the dainty villages of North Tamborine and Curtis Falls, one is
treated to a breathtaking and expansive view of the Gold Coast hinterlands
to the west. The entire mountain top is rich in bric ’a’ brac, antiques,
craft, leafy cafes and even a winery.
"Back
to nature" holiday opportunities abound with Guest Houses, B’n’Bs, forest walks, guided tours and more. Two of the better known spots, 
Backtracking
slightly along the precarious terraces of Beechmont where colourful
parasailors glide on the obliging thermals, down to the relocated Advancetown,
past the Hinze Dam, through the Numinbah Valley and Chillingham, we
stopped to water the horses at Murwillumbah. Reminded of all the hustle
and highway mayhem we were missing, we gladly turned tail and set a
course up along the placid Tweed River. Mount Warning, on our right,
signaled the arrival of the National Park bearing its name. We sailed
past it and the Clarrie Hall Dam opposite, through the wide valley between
the Border Ranges and the Nightcap National Parks, veering south to
the hippie backwater of Nimbin.
I
imagine the many prospering dairy businesses in the area would take
exception to that last description, but on arrival at this famous "rainbow"
town, one can’t help but be swept by the "alternative" culture literally
in your face. A visit to the quaint museum reminds one that people have
a lot of time on their hands around here. The elaborate and ornate,
if somewhat dusty, displays of hippie history illustrate a rather uneasy
relationship with nature and technology. Derelict Combi vans, synonymous
with the "Age Of Aquarious" dominate several of the haphazard exhibits
amid sundry paraphernalia of the time.
We’d
been making full use of our bonus hour thanks to NSW’s daylight savings
time, but still we’d have to make haste to get to Bellingen and the
fabled 
All
material, unless otherwise noted, is copyright to the author and
may not be used, reproduced or mirrored without express consent
in writing. Permission is not specifically sought for linking,
although the author does appreciate notification.