By:   Dennis & Joan Thornton

Preamble

Week 1

It rained all the way to Cootamundra.   We had overnight stops at Narrandera, Wakerie and Woomera.   We left Woomera and soon came across a very big stubborn eagle that refused to budge from its road-kill (a kangaroo).   Even as we passed on the wrong side of the road at 110kmph it still did not move.

We lunched at Coober Pedy and then progressively drove until reaching Kulgera in the Northern Territory.   Today we had travelled 784kms and 2338kms since leaving Canberra 3.5 days ago.   Initially it was quiet night until a road train arrived after dark with three trailers full of bellowing cattle.   Sleep was impossible until about one hour later when the truckie moved on.

The following morning we passed an old-timer walking beside a decrepit old car being pulled by two camels.   As we pulled into the Stuart Wells Roadhouse we saw an embarrassing sight, a road train was stranded in the driveway & the driver was pouring diesel from a container into the tanks.

It was at Stuart Wells that we learnt all about ‘Dinky – The Singing Dingo'.   Other tourists arrived & asked if Dinky was going to sing today.   Whilst they videoed and Joan played the piano, Dinky jumped up onto the piano keyboard and started singing, (howling).   Apparently this act is world famous and Dinky has his own ‘Yahoo' web site.   All proceeds go to the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service).

Soloist Dinki accompanied by pianist Joan

Having visited Alice Springs before we confined our trips to specific areas.   First we spent about 5hours at the Alice Springs Desert Park in the three areas – Desert Rivers, Sand Country & Woodland.   Each area had species of animals appropriate to the diverse nature of the land.   Desert Rivers encompass river red gum trees that are home to red-tailed black cockatoos and other unique desert birds.  The Sand Country is the land of the spinifex, thorny devils, legless lizards and tall termite mounds.   It's the Woodland that is home to the desert's largest creatures, the emu and red kangaroo.

The former Alice Springs Gaol (1938 - 1966) has recently been refurbished and reopened as the National Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame.   It is well documented with a social history of the building and the needs of prisoners, staff, town & society.   It is also a museum dedicated to preserving and displaying material relating to pioneering Australian women.

Outside were two aboriginals, a younger one up the ladder painting in the hot sun, the other older one sitting the shade.   I said, " you've got the best job" to which the reply was "I'm the supervisor".

Week 2

For the evening we decided to stay at the UFO capital of Australia – Wycliffe Wells.   This area is renown for its regular documented UFO sightings.   There may be another reason – the pub also has the largest commercial range of beers in Australia.

It was a hot 35C as we travelled towards Tennant Creek.   Our first stop was the Devils Marbles just outside Wauchope .

Their big   -   Devils Marbles

These huge rounded boulders balanced precariously are believed by the Aborigines to be the eggs of the Rainbow Serpent.   In reality they owe their shape to millions of years of erosion.   In the evening at Tennant Creek we went to a bush tucker & poetry reading show conducted by a local celebrity Jimmy Hooker who, after reading a few poems, introduced us to bush tucker.   Joan tasted roasted witchery grub, (tastes like chicken) but found it unappetising.

The main attraction in Tennant Creek is the Battery Hill Mining Complex but all tours have been stopped as the underground tourist mines are being refurbished.   Defaced town murals are commonplace.

We returned to the A'van & found that extremely small ants had invaded us and they were in everything - linen, biscuits, bedding etc.   Like our fellow campers we all had to empty our vans and wash down the walls.

As we progressed north along the highway isolated roadhouse are a great opportunity for photo's, each having their individual displays of caps, bra's, undies, etc. hanging from the bar ceiling, and the loo's spelt out in different languages.

Daly Waters Pub

The landscape is progressively changing from open plain to extensive thick shrub.   At Elliott we drove 3kms off the Stuart Highway to the historic town of Newcastle Waters, a former town sited on the junction of three major stock routes & a great gathering place for the drovers.   There are a number of old buildings, all accessible, the main ones being the Jones Store and the Junction Hotel.   The National Trust's historic Jones store built in 1934 is now a museum.   Display boards scattered around the buildings highlight its heyday and a disappearing relaxed lifestyle.

At Daly Waters we visited the historic hangar built prior to the 1930's and used by Qantas as a refuelling stop at Australia's first international airfield.   A lot of WW11 memorabilia placards are around the internal walls.   It was late in the day when we booked in at Mataranka & made the mistake of leaving the lights on and door open.   Soon the roof area was full of insects and beetles.

From Mataranka to Katherine it was only 276kms.   We booked into an ensuite site at the Knotts Crossing Resort about 1km from town at $30 per night, highly recommended.   In the afternoon we drove out to the Cutta Cutta Caves (about 34kms).   We had the guide to ourselves as we toured the underground limestone caves 15metres below the surface that has stalactites and stalagmites.   These caves have a solid metal frame walkway for the full length of the cave to cope with unexpected flash flooding.   It was very hot & humid underground, and although we carried water with us, it was great to get to the surface for some fresh air.   It was great to flick the switch on the air-con as we got into to the A'van.

We visited Nitmiluk NP (formerly Katherine Gorge) for our 2 gorges cultural tour.   The Jawoyn Aboriginal Tribe have full control of these gorges and that of Leliyn (Edith Falls).   Arriving so recently after the ‘wet season' everything is still green.   As we travelled along in the double pontoon vessel we learnt about the history of the area, freshwater crocodiles, Jeddah's Leap, & environmental conservation.   At the Katherine Museum we learnt about the extensive 2005 flooding.   It is hard to image the flooding of the Katherine CBD when you consider the height of the road & rail bridges above the Katherine River.   The following day we drove the 61kms to the Leliyn (Edith Falls).   With the temperature at about 30C we walked the 2.6kms Leliyn Trail Loop that climbs quite dramatically at the start and then goes across the escarpment before reaching the higher waterfalls at the upper pools and then descends back to the car-park.   With fantastic views from a couple of lookouts the water was flowing very fast over the rapids and waterfalls.   This was a very strenuous 2.5 hr walk & we drank copious quantities of our bottled water.

Edith Falls   -   Katherine

Week 3

Since arriving we have heard that a lot of the outback roads are closed due to an exceptionally ‘wet' season this year.   Later we took a tour of The Hoochery, (the oldest legal still in Western Australia).   As the only ones on the 1 hour tour we found it very interesting, and especially invigorating afterwards at ($1 per shot) of the local vintage.   Another nearby attraction is the currently closed Ivanhoe Crossing.   This is a concrete causeway over the Lower Ord River, about 15kms north of Kununurra.   The river is running too fast and is therefore very dangerous to cross.   Crocodiles are still possible along the water's edge.

The following day we drove the 70km to Lake Argyle.   This inland sea was created in 1971 by damming the mighty Ord River for the ill-fated cotton project.   It now provides irrigation to immense areas of the East Kimberley region.   The tour primarily gives you a history of the building of the Ord River Dam and the creation of Lake Argyle.   Later we drove across the dam wall & viewed this massive feat from the lookouts.

Lake Argle / Ord Dam Wall

As we were departing we called into the Durack Homestead and Museum, the homestead being relocated from its original site 16kms away that is now under the waters of Lake Argyle.

Just outside Kununurra is the Mirima (Hidden Valley) NP, a small park with sandstone cliffs and valleys similar in appearance to parts of the Bungle Bungle Range.   Some rock formations resemble the more famous beehives (hence the local name of ‘mini Bungles').   Sweat was pouring out of us as we climbed to the lookout, (about 1km from the car-park).

Our next stop was Wyndham (100kms) calling into The Grotto on the way.   The Grotto is a natural amphitheatre swimming hole with dripping water accessible via a rock staircase of 140 steps.   The track to the bottom of the amphitheatre was very precarious and you really had to look where you were walking, but the coolness and beauty at the bottom was worth it.

When we arrived in Wyndham there were few people around being a Saturday, not that that would make much difference anyway.   One of the attractions in this area is the Crocodile Farm.   This is being revamped but we were still able to see a number of ‘salties' being fed each with half a chicken.   They also have a rogue one that needs to be treated with a bit of respect.

The whole area of Wyndham Port is rundown and really needs an extensive overhaul if it is going to attract more tourists.  We drove up to the Five Rivers Lookout to get some idea of the view and again later at sunset for some great photos.   The next day we drove to Halls Creek with stops at Doon Doon and Warmun.   At Halls Creek we drove out to the ‘China Wall' a natural white quartz formation protruding up to 6m from the surrounding surface.

From there it was a short drive to Old Halls Creek, home to the first gold discovery in Western Australia.   The main attraction is the ruins of the Old Post Office made of stone & mud brick.   However in trying to preserve this heritage structure authorities have now covered it with a large metal roof to keep the rain off and encircled the site with high chain mesh fence.   A classic case of ‘overkill'.   In the evening we walked across to the Kimberley Hotel restaurant for a three course carvery tea – 2 soups, 3 choices of meats, hot vegetables, and deserts of fruit salad, chocolate cake & cream - what luxury.

With a strong tailwind we drove straight through to Fitzroy Crossing (289kms) & booked into the upmarket Fitzroy Lodge Hotel/Motel & CP complex.   We were told that all tours to Geikie Gorge were cancelled due to the ‘wet season' flood damage.   With little else to do we decided to drive down to the area anyway and check it out for ourselves.   The cruise boat launching area was still covered in dried mud and the CALM rangers had tried to burn-off intrusive undergrowth.   A lot of work needed to be done before the area would be up to scratch for the tourists.

Week 4

Over the next 8 days we visited many local attractions including Cable Beach to see beautiful sand & crystal clear waters.   Many families are taking the opportunity to walk the beach, or swim in the shallows.   In this paradise the drawback is the ‘stingers', jellyfish that can cause excruciating pain, and in some cases death, as they wrap their tentacles around the body.   A bottle of vinegar is always at the nearby ‘stingers first aid' post.   We also pre-booked a 2hr tour on the Double Decker Bus that takes you around the sights of Broome.   Visiting Chinatown we called into the Sun Pictures Open Air Deckchair Picture Theatre that is right at the end of the main airport runway.   We also drove to the Deep Water Port at the southern tip of Roebuck Bay.   There is a separate walkway along the jetty for pedestrians and anglers.   With a nice sea breeze it was pleasantly cool whilst walking in the sun.   Nearby is an area called ‘The Pindan Soils' where distinctive red soils meet white sand and blue seas.   Departing early for Cable Beach we arrived just as a number of ‘camel trains' were setting off along Cable Beach with their passengers.   We drove onto the sand negotiating a soft sand area where many vehicles were having trouble.   The ‘camel trains' walk a considerable distance north along the beach before they turn around as the sun progressively sets on the horizon.   It is surprising how quickly darkness descends as soon as the sun sets.

Camels   -   Cable Beach, Broome

On the Double Decker bus tour we were the only passengers and sat on the top deck at the front of the bus.   We had great views with an interesting documentary from the driver down below.   We visited many areas such as Cable Beach, The Buddha's Sanctuary, Chinatown, Town Beach, various upmarket housing developments with $2million houses, locations of museums, markets, shops, Japanese (pearl divers) Cemetery, Chinese Cemetery, Broome Port and was told the best viewing area for the forthcoming ‘Staircase to the Moon'.   The Saturday Courthouse Markets had plenty of exotic & Asian food, soft drink & ice cream, clothing stalls, art gallery displays, jewellery and unusual stalls.   Plenty of tourists and locals make this a colourful event with the aroma of cooked food wetting the taste buds.

Tour Bus   -   Broome

In the afternoon we drove down to the Broome Historical Museum that concentrates on the pearling industry in Broome and the effects of Japanese raids during WW11.  We returned to Gantheaume Point and found Anastasia's Pool, created by a former lighthouse keeper who had an arthritic wife.   To assist in the treatment of this ailment he chipped a metre wide small pool in the solid granite so that she could sooth her aching bones.

Anastasia's Pool   -   Gantheaume Point, Broome

Cliffs in this area are very crumbly and dangerous.   Back in town we made a couple of tour bookings, one for the Pearl Luggers, the other a visit to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm about 42kms away in the swampy tidal area north of Broome.

At Cable Beach we drove around to Buddha's Sanctuary (an area of enlightment) for all those who believe.   The light rays through the slotted roof were quite effective.   The Pearl Luggers tour identifies ‘The Sea, The Men, The Legend' – a journey into the historical foundations of pearling in Broome whilst Joan was happy to hold in her hand a pearl valued at $100,000.   We then watched a short film displaying the harshness of hard-hat pearl diving at the turn of the century.   Chinatown has a profusion of shops displaying precious pearls as well as pearl and pearl-shell jewellery.   From there we walked across to the Gecko Gallery, Broome's premier gallery for aboriginal fine art.   At 4.30pm we set out for Town Beach to watch the natural phenomenon called ‘Stairways to the Moon'.   This is where moonlight reflects off mudflats creating an illusion of a staircase climbing skyward.   Tonight the show was scheduled for 5.59pm.   The area soon became crowded with people but unfortunately the moon decided to stay behind the clouds to everyone's disappointment.   Apparently a cyclone off Christmas Island is creating immense cloud across the Kimberley.

Sunset   -   Broome

Week 5

In the evening we again went to Town Beach but wasted our time as the cloud cover prevented any ‘Staircase to the Moon'.   Rather than waste another day for the ‘Staircase' to materialize we decided to leave Broome a day early.   Another hot night but with our recent air-con modifications the cooling system had improved immensely.

Seven kms from Derby we stopped at the Boab Prison Tree.   The tree is believed to be about 1500 years old and has a girth of 14.7 metres.   It was used as a staging point for prisoners being walked to Derby in the early days.   Nearby is Myall's Bore Trough, built in 1917 and can water 500 bullocks at any one time.   We notice that the marsupials are very laidback as a couple of goannas casually walked across the road oblivious to our 4WD.   It was very hot & humid by the time we reached the Kimberley Entrance CP at Derby.   We had timed our arrival perfectly as tours of Tunnel Creek & Windjana Gorge had just commenced the previous day with the partial opening of the Gibb River Road.   Another tour was on tomorrow so we made an immediate booking.   After setting up camp we travelled down to the jetty to see the water level at high tide, (and later at low level) taking photos for comparison purposes.   At the Old Derby Gaol we were shocked to look at the open grilled prisoner cells that Aboriginal prisoners were expected to live in, in such a hot & humid climate.

At 8am we walked to the front of the CP and waited with two other backpackers for the tour bus.   We saw a bus pull up, noticed that it was a 4WD school bus, so we all returned to the CP.   A few minutes later the driver informed us that we were going on the Windjana Gorge & Tunnel Creek Tour in the brand new 4WD school bus recently picked up from Perth.   This was its first tour and even the school kids had not ridden in it, (school children being on holidays).   It was painted a bright reddish orange colour, easily seen from the air if it broke down.

Derby school bus

After picking up more astonished passengers we travelled the 145kms arriving at Windjana Gorge for morning tea, coffee & biscuits.   Windjana Gorge is a 5km gorge containing some of the best examples of fossil reef complexes in the world.   As we walked along part of the gorge (about 1km) we saw one baby crocodile, noted fossils in the sandstone gorge walls and took many photos of the terrific scenery.

Windjana Gorge

Lunch comprised a platter of various salads, a number of meats washed down with orange juice.   Later we set off for the 36km trip to Tunnel Creek, an eroded 750 metres walk-through limestone cave of the Napier Range.   The road between these two locations was extremely rough even though it had just been graded.   Many floodway crossings were full of rocks.   Upon arrival we were all issued with lanterns as the tunnel is pitch black in some areas.   In 1992 you were able to just walk into the tunnel, however since then there has been a massive cliff collapse at the entrance.   Now it is necessary to lower yourself over massive boulders into an unknown depth of water.   Fortunately the tour driver went first to identify the actual depth of the water that was thigh high (for me anyway, somewhat higher for Joan).   Fortunately the water was not really cold, but there were many rocks to negotiate.   As we progressed the tunnel became eerie dark and only the torch lit the way.   We were constantly going into ankle and knee deep water moving from one side of the tunnel to the other.   Joan was not taking any chances and followed in the footsteps of the tour driver.   After about 300metres we came across the roof cave-in and daylight, the area surrounded with green trees and undergrowth.

Collapsed roof half way along Tunnel Creek

Re-entering Tunnel Creek

We then pushed on for another 450metres, back into the dark tunnel with no natural light until we came to the other side of the Napier Range.   This area had stunning photographic material and I was the last to return.   In the tunnel we saw many fish and evidence of freshwater crocodile tracks (there are 2 in the tunnel but they are timid).   We spent about 2 hours in Tunnel Creek, an area we would not have ventured by ourselves without the aid of an experienced tour guide.

It was 3.30pm when we continued along the track to the Lillimilura Police Station that was built in the 1890's because of Aboriginal attacks on white settlers.   It was after 6pm when we returned to Derby.

The following morning Bev Lednard, a long time resident of Derby; (we met her on the tour) called around to give Joan a print of a Boab flower, (very rare as it only flowers for about 24 hours).   Before departing Derby we again took photos of the jetty with the water showing the mudflats.   We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing about midday with all shops shut.   Geikie Gorge remains closed to tourists.   It was late the following day that we arrived at Warmun.   Facilities are very basic and old yet they charge $28 per night for a powered site.   However if you want to leave you're A'van somewhere so that you can drive into the Bungles, then you have no choice but to pay.

Left Warmun at 8.30am after securing the A'van.   Arrived at Bungles turnoff, engaged 4WD and spent the next 2 hours travelling 52kms negotiating creek crossings, corrugations and washaways that had not seen a grader since last year.   This is the reason tour operators are encouraging tourists to fly in and then get ground transport because the road is so rough.   We arrived at the Visitors Centre at 11am and then drove up to the Kungkalanayi Lookout that provides 360-degree views of spinifex-covered ridges and the western escarpment of the Bungle Bungle Range.

At the Bellburn Bush Camp we confirmed our overnight accommodation that provides hot showers; a home cooked evening meal and breakfast before setting off for Piccaninny Gorge area and Cathedral Gorge that is about 26kms from the Bush camp.   We first tackled the Domes Trail; an easy short 1km circuit walk amongst the domes beginning at the Piccaninny Gorge Car Park.

Beehive Domes Trail

It was great walking amongst these beautiful striped banded domes especially when the trail went into some shade, the temperature being 35C.

Beehive Domes   -   Bungles

Beehive Domes

After a quick bite to eat we set off for the 2km return Cathedral Gorge walk with short steep slopes and narrow ledges.   This walk is amongst towering cliffs, banded domes, pebbles and potholes.

Cathedral Gorge   -   Bungles

It is impossible to describe the massive size of the amphitheatre with huge overhanging ceiling and walls and a centre pool of water with fish and where no sunlight ever penetrates.   For us this was the jewel of the Bungles.

Water stain at Cathedral Gorge

Mirror Image   -   Cathedral Gorge

Bungles Massif

Returning we briefly called into Piccaninny Gorge to look at the numerous potholes but by this time we were both very fatigued and just wanted to lie down.   Unfortunately back burning in the nearby hills created a pale of smoke that drifted across our area.   With other tourists still out on their bus tour tea was delayed & we were starved by the time we sat down to roast beef, chicken, potatoes, peas, corn, carrot & beans, followed up with a nice desert.   Living in the A'van these past 5 weeks our main concern at night was keeping cool, now we are both cold even with an extra doona.

Main problem during the night was the cold and constant smell of smoke.   By 7.30am we were on our way to the Echidna Chasm about 35kms from base camp with an easy to moderate return walk of 2kms through a spectacular long narrow chasm with striking colour variations depending on the angle of the sun.   Very spectacular scenery.

Walking into Echidna Chasm

It was necessary to watch your footing on the round stones that have been washed down the creek, otherwise you could end up with a twisted ankle.   The Livistona palms both in the chasm and along the ridges look out of place in this type of environment.   As the cliff walls gradually get closer together so does the feeling of claustrophobia.   A number of rock falls restricted our travel up to the upper reaches of the gorge, but it was still very dark & forbidding with a sign saying ‘Beware of rock falls'.

At about 1pm we started the slow tortious journey out to the Highway.   It took about 2 hours and we passed one elderly couple towing a brand new Odyssey off-road camper tailer.   I stopped and wished him luck, (caravans are banned) and I think he will have more than a few scratches and dents after he gets in, (and then he has to get out again).   All drivers of hired vehicles appear to speed, irrespective of road surface, this track being no exception.

By 4pm we were back on the black top and soon on our way to Warmun.   Just outside the roadhouse Police stopped me for speeding.   I had slowed down from 100kmph to 80kmph but I did not see 70kmph sign soon after.   He realised that I had tried to do the right thing and let me off with a caution, that's after a rego check, licence check   breathalyser – phew.   We drove straight to the A'van for a rest.

Week 6

Early next morning the El Questro Wilderness Park vehicle picked us up & after 70km of bitumen soon encountered the rough Gibb River Road.   Entering El Questro the roads had been graded, (they have their own grader), & by 9am we were at the Emma Gorge car park for the half hour difficult walk to Emma Gorge Falls & the opportunity for a swim in the cold water.

It was slow going, constantly crossing back and forth amongst the rocks and the flowing stream.   In the hot sun it was great to see the spectacular waterfall ahead & then actually arrive at the base of the falls.   A number of people swam under the falls but most stayed in the shallows.   The water was very cold, and the below surface rocks were slippery underfoot, definitely not a place to twist an ankle.   Walking downstream was much harder and I'm glad I had a pole for support.

We had morning tea at the Emma Gorge Restaurant and then drove around to the Zebedee Thermal Springs.   This area was located about 350m from the track and the prevalence of Livistona palms in such arid area is totally out of character.   This steamy environment was a great place to relax those aching bones in the hot springs.

Returning to the Station Township we had a great meal of beef, barramundi and salad.   It was very tender and cooked to perfection.

The Chamberlain River Cruise is a combination of Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) & Geikie Gorge except that you can get off the boat to study geological, botanical and animal habitats.   With an afternoon snack of fruit platter and wine it was late in the day when we got back to El Questro.   Returning along the road to Kununurra a number of mountain ranges were alight with ‘controlled burning' & in some cases the driver was driving blindly through the ensuing smoke.   After a rather hair rising ride we finally got back to Kununurra about 7pm.

Next morning we left Kununurra for Katherine and stayed at the same CP.   Aren't we lucky – directly behind the CP this weekend is the Katherine Country Music Muster, 30 hours of entertainment and we have a free grandstand view of the sounds (noise) to send us to sleep.   The loud amplified music ( instrumental and singers) went on all evening and only finally stopped at midnight.   It was only then could we get some sleep.

Departing Katherine at 8.30am we soon arrived at the historic town of Pine Creek.   Facilities are very old & need a substantial revamp.   After refuelling at Hayes Creek we opted for the scenic drive to Adelaide River.   As we entered the Adelaide River railway museum the GHAN Train went by.   The museum was very interesting especially the WW11 memorabilia.   After lunch we drove around to the Adelaide River WW11 Cemetery – it has quite a sobering effect.   As we approached Batchelor and Litchfield NP there are large clouds of smoke from controlled burns, in some cases too close to the road.   After setting up camp we returned to Batchelor to visit the Butterfly & Bird Farm.   This years torrential rains has killed off many of the butterflies but we did have the opportunity to photograph many substitute rabbits, guinea pigs, pig, lyrebirds etc; and one cheeky rosella.   We returned to camp late in the day through more dense smoke and roadside fires.   A very smoky sunset.

Next day we left to explore the Litchfield NP attractions.   First stop was the Termite Mounds that have an unusual external texture that looks like grey gravel with thin edges pointing north/south to minimise exposure to the sun.   From there we went to Buley Rockhole with a fast flowing creek running over rocks.   This easy accessible area is very popular with old and young tourists.   Nearby is Florence Falls with a very spectacular double waterfall and lookout and access to the swimming hole below, provided you walk the 134 steps/stairs to get to the bottom.   From here it was just a short drive to Tolmer Falls that cascades over two escarpments and is an easy walk to the lookout.   However you cannot access the base of the falls.

It was lunchtime when we reached the main tourist attraction - Wangi Falls.   These are very spectacular and very photographic.   It is unfortunate that due to flood damage surrounding this attraction swimming is not allowed in the pool area, and a number of the boardwalks and the walking track to the top of the falls are closed.   This may account for the large number of people at the other pools.   Returning we checked to find the 4WD tracks to Blyth Homestead, Lost City & Tin Mine were still closed due to flood damage.

Wangi Falls   -   Litchfield National Park

Left Litchfield NP early & it was an easy drive of 120kms to Berry Springs CP.   Close by is Darwin's Territory Wildlife Park.   The concept is very similar to Alice Springs Desert Park, but this one has many more attractions and because of the torrential rain, has dense tropical vegetation.   The first stop was the Nocturnal House and the Woodlands Walk.   We found it too dark and could hardly see anything – Alice Springs was much better.   However the separate enclosures on the way to the walk-through aviary were well documented with plenty of birds and manuals.   The aviary was enormous but we suspect most of the birds had done a runner – very few were seen.

After the Wetlands Walk we entered the Aquarium, an enclosed building.   This was very well displayed and very colourful.   The walk-through glass tunnel with manta rays and swordfish swimming overhead was quite stunning.   We also saw one of the staff in scuba gear using a suction pump to clean the floor of the fish tank.   They do it every fortnight.   At the Flight Deck we saw a spectacular display of free flight eagles, and even one cracking an emu egg with a stone.

Week 7

Next stop was Jenny's Orchid Garden in Howard Springs.   This was an outstanding attraction, being a nursery, display area and also seating for Devonshire tea.

Orchids   -   Howard Springs

Because of the humidity the orchids are not in soil, they are suspended on racks their roots just hanging in the air – and with such lovely blooms and colours.   We are lucky that we have digital cameras because between us we took over 80 photographs.   We then walked around the Homestead and then sat down on the patio for Devonshire tea with beautiful fluffy scones with heaps of strawberry jam and cream.

Orchids   -   Howard Springs

We arrived at the Berrimah Hidden Valley CP about 1pm.   We have a 'jail type' ensuite on a grass site.   Everything is green and sprinklers are everywhere.   We booked for the Tub Tour the following day.

Very noisy night with 24hour operation of the nearby Darwin Airport.   At 8am we took the freeway into Darwin's CBD and walked around the Mall where every 5th shop is a souvenir shop.

Darwin city skyline

The Tub Tour Bus arrived at 9am and we stayed on it the longest explaining to the driver that unlike others, we had our own transport and really just wanted to get an idea of where to find other attractions.   Indirectly we also noted any parking problems.   The tour does a circular route every hour of most of the attractions around the city of Darwin.   We stayed on the bus until it reached its furthest point being the East Point Military Museum.

The main museum is located in the former command centre for the 9.2mm gun emplacements.   There is considerable documentation on the bombing and defence of Darwin during WW11 (with 64 air-raids spread over a period of 21 months).   We watched a video on the bombing of Darwin and the defence effort.   In the afternoon we alighted from the bus at the WW11 Oil Storage Tunnels.   These are quite extensive but were actually completed after the end of WW11.   They are now in a bad state of repair and are really only appropriate as a tourist attraction.   Not wanting to wait for the bus we walked up to the scenic lookout and then back along the Esplanade to our 4WD.

Left early next morning for fish feeding at Aquascene where Joan fed the ocean visitors with bread.   Another area had ‘captured' barramundi, catfish, giant lobster and other creatures of the deep.   We stayed for about 2 hours.   We then drove out to the East Point Fortifications (being outside the museum grounds) and took photo's of all of the old WW11 gun emplacements, magazine, store & control buildings.   From here it was a short drive to Fannie Bay Gaol, a number of buildings had been wrecked during WW11 and then rebuilt only to have further partial destruction from cyclone Tracy.   There is a lot of history related to the buildings, included the last hanging.

At 4pm we set off for the ‘must see' Mindil Beach Markets (the biggest we have ever seen, and of course the most picturesque).   There were many stalls selling all types of exotic food, artists & original paintings, homemade jewellery, woodcarving and entertainment.   We were really impressed with STOMP, who played contemporary Didjeridu music.

STOMP   -   Mindil Markets, Darwin

It was later in the evening that the markets become temporarily empty as most people sit on the beach watching a beautiful sunset, and then back to the markets for the nighttime entertainment.

After making a booking for the Jumping Crocodile Cruise at Adelaide River we set out for the Charles Darwin NP, which during the WW11 and up to 1980 was the main storage area for bombs and ammunition.   There are about 11 dumps in the area and one was open for inspection.   They all looked like oversized ‘Anderson' shelters'.   The one open unit had numerous placards identifying the war effort and effects on the populace of Darwin.   We then drove across town to the George Brown Botanical Gardens.   Although a large selection of tropical trees it was somewhat disappointing in that there were few flowering tropical plants.

After morning tea we visited the Australian Museum & Art Gallery.   It's not a large museum but some displays do emphasis the dangers of tropical waters.   At 5.30pm we drove to Mindil Beach to take photos of the setting sun.   What a difference a day makes – no market – no crowds.   It's Friday night & no shops are open, even in the suburbs.

At Adelaide River we were fortunate to be on the top deck of the boat for the Jumping Crocodile Show.   We had many photographic opportunities for the crocodile jumping events and afterwards the low level kite flying display.   It doesn't take much effort to encourage a crocodile to put on an act when you dangle on a piece of string half a chook or a piece of beef.

Feeding Crocodiles

It's a nice wide river but water skiing is not encouraged.   From there we drove to ‘Windows on the Wetland' interpretive centre of the Aboriginal Dreamtime and its elevated site provides great views across the wetlands.

Fogg Dam is nearby and rather than walk across the earthen dam wall we drove, (crocodiles both sides and it was too dam hot anyway).   We stopped at the Pandanus Lookout that gave us an elevated view of the nearby swampland covered with birdlife, even at midday.   Whilst talking to other tourists we found out about the ‘Sticky Beak Shop' on our way back into town.   This shop next to a sand & gravel merchant is filled with an unlikeliest lot of figurines, antiques, woodwork, ironwork, ceramics and ancient animals of the dinosaur era.   All could be purchased for a price.

It's MOTHERS DAY as we drive around the various Sunday markets before visiting the Cullen Bay Marina, a very upmarket housing and sailing boat activity area with many expensive houses & private water access.   After lunch we drove around to Stokes Wharf, D arwin's port precinct and found out about the great meals of fresh fish that could be purchased and ate on the wharf.   Late in the day we called into the Sunday Mindil Markets (just as popular), but the weather was extremely hot & humid so we decided not to stay.   In the evening we again returned to Stokes Wharf.   It was a great tea of grilled barramundi and salad, a seafood platter & liquid refreshments.   Beautiful sunset.

Lone rider   -   Darwin

We next visited the Australian Pearling Exhibition at the Stokes Wharf.   This exhibition emphasis the role that the Paspaley Family has been in the past 100 years.

Paspaley Pearls   -   Darwin

We had already covered much of this territory whilst in Broome & the Willie Creek Pearl Farm.   Next-door is the Indo Pacific Marine – a living coral reef eco-system.   Very impressive exhibition and unfortunately with ‘No photographs' permitted and no postcards to purchase it is hard to convey the impressive credentials of this

Week 8

B52   -   Aviation Museum, Darwin

At 6pm we returned to the city for the Deckchair Cinema that is close to Lameroo Beach.   If you are a regular attendee then you know to arrive with enclosed clothing from neck to toe.   As a tourist you are not really prepared for the hordes of mosquitoes that can smell southern blood.   It was an unusual experience to first watch the setting sun, and then the moon in a starry sky and at the same time spraying oneself with mosquito repellent.   We literally covered our bodies with spray.   It was a great Houdini movie.

On another occasion we set off for Cullen Bay and boarded the catamaran cruise ship ‘Spirit of Darwin'.   By 5.30pm we had exited the locks and progressed along the coastline visiting areas that we had only seen from shore.   Being late in the day visibility was not 100% but we still had a spectacular sunset, augmented with a lot of cloud effects.   We sailed around the wharf area that was now lit up and saw illegal fishing boats ready to be sunk and burnt in Darwin Harbour.   It was very dark as we made our way back through the marina locks after 2 hours at sea.

Left Darwin early arriving in Jabiru (Kakadu NP) at 1pm.   On the way we saw a wild dingo crossing the road ahead of us.   There is a lot of controlled burning and smoke is just drifting in the air with windless days.

Controlled burnoffs   -   Kakadu

We stayed at the upmarket Kakadu Lodge where powered sites are $32.   The only supermarket's food is very expensive, but they don't have plastic bags – either boxes or brown paper bags.   We set off late in the day to visit Ubirr (54kms).   There is still a lot of local burning alongside the road and we sometimes had to drive through drifts of smoke.

Nabulwingbulwlng   -   Aboriginal rock painting   -   Ubhirr

Ubirr is famous for its Aboriginal art sites and in the short time we were there we visited them all before climbing the Nadab Lookout that gives you great views across the floodplains.

Wetland   -   Kakadu

We purposely did not stay for the setting sun as we considered it would be very dangerous clambering down the rocks after sunset.   We quickly called into the office and booked a recommended 4WD Arnhemlander Heritage tour by Aboriginal elders.

Very warm and smoky night with air-con on all night.   Driving along the Kakadu Highway we called into the Nourlangie Aboriginal Art Site and did the 1.5kms circular walk past ancient Aboriginal shelters & outstanding art sites.   We then returned to the highway & drove to the Yellow River cruise tour at Cooinda.   Only a small number of pontoon boats are operating at his stage, being early in the tourist season.   This was a very relaxing tour as the pontoon boat moved at a leisurely pace through the wetlands.

Wetlands   -   Arnhemland

The tour lasted about 90minutes and during that time we saw many species of birds and the occasional crocodiles sunbaking on the riverbanks.   By the time we returned to Jabiru the whole sky was black with a massive burn-off in and around the town.   With fire trucks running around I don't think they expected the wind to all of a sudden get quite strong.   The smoke has affected Joan considerably on this trip, as controlled burn-offs are everywhere, mostly unattended.

With our Aboriginal guide, Victor & another two couples we set off in the 4WD bus for the Border Store at Ubirr to pick up our lunches.   Toilet facilities here are atrocious.   We then crossed the crocodile infested East Alligator River at Cahills Crossing that took us into Arnhem Land.   Permits are necessary from the Aboriginal Land Trust to enter this area and these are very restrictive, stay on main road, no deviation, be self contained, no fuel available and limited to a certain number of vehicles per day.   At Kunbarilanjnja (Oenpelli) we stopped briefly to look at the flood plains and the escarpment that we would eventually climb.   Being a Sunday the Arts Centre was closed, but Victor convinced an aboriginal elder to come out and show us a Woomera (spear throwing device) that he had carved.

It was another 20kms before finally stopping and Victor mentioned that we would be doing a bit of climbing.   This major climb of about 400 metres was well worth the effort with exceptional examples of outstanding Aboriginal rock art along a precarious ledge.

Aboriginal Rock Paintings   -   Arnhem Land

There were numerous examples, some very outstanding whilst others had been tarnished or simply weathered.   This ledge also gave us very good views across the flood plains.

Aboriginal Rock Paintings   -   Arnhem Land

Following our pre-packaged lunch and further photographs of the nearby East Alligator River Floodplains we then accessed a very spiritual area for Aboriginals - a burial site under rock ledges.   We were not allowed to take photo's of the elaborate rock art directly next to the site.   In some areas Aboriginal custom restricts walking too close to art features on the rock.

Spirit Guardians of Sacred Site   -   Arnhem Land

We then returned to Cahills Crossing, re-entering Kakadu NP and then drove around to the other side of the flood plains directly opposite the Ubirr art sites & lookout to see more rock art.   We drove through grasses that were the height of the 4WD bus along tracks that only Victor appeared to know about.   If we had driven this area ourselves we would have got hopelessly lost and saw nothing.

It was late in the day after many more Aboriginal rock art sightings that we finally headed back to the CP.   A great trip thoroughly recommended.   To our dismay, they were burning off all around the perimeter of the caravan park.   A woman leaving the office apologised for the smoke but said, "It has to be done".   Although smoky we were so buggered that we slept through the haze.   The air-con ran all night.

Week 9

Leaving Katherine we first drove to Mataranka and then decided to stop at Larrimah for lunch.   This town is famous for Fran's Pies, which we sampled.   There is a big sign saying ‘DO NOT ENTER KITCHEN'.   There are no prices and its only when you finish do you find out the pies are $7 each & cup of tea $4.50.   The meat supposedly comes from Jones Meat Mart in Katherine, but a sign also says ‘Don't forget your BBQ – Frozen Buffalo & Camel sausages'.   Joan cut hers in half and then tried to eat it.   She wasted it into a paper towel & shoved it in her handbag.   When Joan lied and said she could only eat half the pie Fran said "that's OK love, I'll put the other half in a paper bag so you can have it for lunch later".   As we left the area, all of the pie went into the rubbish bin.   You can make up your own mind.

We then called into Daly Waters and the historic pub, (needed a Tooheys Old to settle the stomach).   We took many photos of this area before pushing on to Dunmarra and finally stopping at Elliot.   The place is overrun with peacocks and there is a sign in the gas station ‘If you can catch one you can take it'.   The owner told me later that if I could catch two I could start my own farm.

Departing Elliot early we arrived at Tennant Creek about 12 noon.   For a change we decided to stay in the town Tennant Creek CP.   In the afternoon we went out to see The Pebbles (Kundjarra) a smaller version of the Devils Marbles, but unlike them you cannot physically access The Pebbles.   It is a sacred Aboriginal women's refuge and Aboriginal men are not allowed in the area.   From there it was just a matter of driving down the road to the Tennant Creek Overland Telegraph Station.   This station with its cool verandahs has been kept in very good condition and with fresh paint is obviously well maintained.   Illustrative plaques are adjacent to all buildings including the nearby cemetery.

Very noisy and apprehensive night with nearby ‘locals' using the ‘F' word frequently.   Left Tennant Creek and drove 187kms to the Barkley Homestead Roadhouse for morning tea.   The cost of fuel is: Autogas 112.9cpl, unleaded 197.6cpl & diesel 212.0cpl, which is quite reasonable considering the remoteness of the location.   We have paid much higher prices in our travels up north.   We finally crossed into Queensland and arrived at Camooweal at 1.45pm.   The famous Post Office Hotel/Motel Pub wasn't serving meals so we opted to eat at the servo.   The nearby store-cum-heritage centre museum depicts life in a remote community back in the droving days and was full of authentic memorabilia.   The current shop continues the same décor of the 1930 ‘s.   A similar ‘time warp' shop is at Croydon (Qld).   At 2.30pm we pushed on to Mt Isa staying at the Lake Moondarra Caravan Park about 3kms from town.

My what a contrast – yesterday the air-con was going full bore, this morning we woke to a cold morning of 7C with the reverse cycle HEATER on, but by 9.30am we were back to hot weather again.   We first visited the supermarkets and then located the Mt Isa Irish Club.   We were given a good rundown on the founding of the club and then given the opportunity to wander around.   What with street scenes, a Melbourne Tram, plenty of pokies, bars, eating facilities and entertainment rooms we could understand why it is the largest Irish Club in Australia, and they are still expanding.   We called in for a bistro tea – for $15.90 it was a self-service 3course meal – 2 soups, 3 meats, pastas, vegetables, 4 deserts (2 hot 2 cold) tea, soft drinks & orange juice.   Best public meal in town – Highly recommended.

Mt Isa Irish Club

In the morning we left early to visit the WW11 Underground Hospital Museum that had been tunnelled and set up in a nearby hill.   It had on display many of the original antiquated instruments and the various types of beds/cots used during that time.   Having spent considerable time in Mt Isa a few years back there were only the shops to revisit.   Naturally in the evening we had another bistro tea at the Irish Club.

We left Mt Isa at 7.30am with a short stop at Cloncurry before refuelling again at McKinley.   By 12.30pm we had arrived at Kynuna.   Nearby was a road-train with a registered floatplane in parts being transported down the highway.

Seaplane Transporter   -   Kynuna

We took some photos at the Blue Heeler Hotel before having lunch across the road at the Kynuna Roadhouse.   Next stop was Winton where the Top Tourist parks facilities have still not improved since we were here about 8 years ago.

In town most shops are closed so we again went out to see Arno's Wall.   This modern wonder of art & architecture contains almost every household item you could imagine.   There's everything from motorbikes to the kitchen sink.

Arno's Wall   -   Winton

We arrived in Longreach about 10am.   Earliest available tour for the B747 was 1pm.   Initially toured the shops before looking at the Qantas Museum.   Fortunately the B747 tour was concise and like clockwork, first discussing the aircraft's flying characteristics and then entering the aircraft to see internal workings.   Considering the size and weight of these aircraft it makes you wonder how they get airborne.   At 2.30pm we pushed onto Barcaldine where we stopped for the night.

Week 10

On the way to Cunnamulla the following day we had a few rain showers, the first since leaving Canberra.   At Bourke we saw a long line of vehicles being processed through the only fuel depot & opted for a counter meal at the hotel.   By the time we got back to the fuel depot there was still a long line of trucks and cars.   Never known a fuel depot that actually closes for lunch 1–2pm, but in this case the operator did not arrive back until 2.25pm.   Because of this time delay we could only travel 656kms and pulled into Nyngan late in the day.

A cool morning but it was nice driving into the early morning sun on our way to Narromine, Peak Hill, & Parkes before detouring across country to Cowra.   We have stayed here many times and it is a good place to rest before doing the last 260kms into Canberra.   After returning from the shops late in the day Ken Greenwood rang, and then Marie & Peter Stephens walked across to see us, they are on their way back from Busselton and are at the other end of the CP.   Soldiers Club meal tonight – no comparison with the Irish Club, but sure beats cooking.

We left Cowra early arriving at Boorowa just as the café was opening for trade.   It was a nice sunny day and after a quick snack we were soon on the way to Yass & Canberra.   Had a good run along the Barton Highway and pulled into the driveway at Wanniassa about 11.30am.

Dennis and Joan Thornton (November 2008)
E-mail: thornies1@optusnet.com.au