Tips & Useful Technical Information
In Case of Emergency:
We all have our mobile phones, but this tip passed on by Ken McCloskey (2607) could really save your life, or put a
loved one's mind at rest.
Message from NSW Ambulance Service
We all carry our mobile phones with names & numbers stored in its memory,
but if we were to be involved in an accident or were taken ill, the people
attending us wouldn't know who to call.
Yes, there are hundreds of numbers stored but which one is the contact person in case of an emergency?
Hence this "ICE" (In Case of Emergency)
Campaign. The concept of "ICE" is catching on quickly. It is a
method of contact during emergency
situations. As mobile phones are carried by the majority of
the population, all you need to do is store the
number of a contact person or persons who should be contacted during
emergency under the name "ICE" (In
Case Of Emergency).
This idea was thought up by a paramedic
who found that when he went to the scenes of accidents, there were always mobile
phones with patients, but they didn't know which
number to call. He therefore thought that it would be a good
idea if there was a nationally recognized
name for this purpose. In an emergency situation, Emergency
Service personnel and hospital staff would be able to quickly contact the right person by simply dialling the
number you have stored as "ICE".
For more than one contact name simply enter ICE1, ICE2 and
ICE3 etc.
RepellANT:
Troubled by pesky ants running around
your pristine kitchen area? Nellie
Romer (2617) advises talcum
powder sprinkled around the wheels, stabilisers, jockey wheel, power
cable and water hose fixes the problem. Apparently the powder gums up
their little feet so they go elsewhere. Cheap powder is just as effective
as the most expensive.
Watch where you walk:
Visiting van parks boasting wondering "cute and
cuddly wildlife"? Have a grass rake in the A'van locker.
Tried and tested at many club gatherings (kangaroos, possums, ducks... ), the
rake is always in great demand!
Takes a bit longer, but... :
Prefer not to have wet towels hanging
around? Pam Thomas (2902)
suggests you use instead a ‘face cloth'
to dry yourself after showering. They absorb a lot of water and are
easily rung-out when saturated. Guaranteed to get you at least 95% dry and
the face cloth itself dries quickly on the van
towel rail.
Flapping lockers:
If your A'van locker doors hinge along the
bottom (many of them do), ensure the screw holding the inside tab to
the door lock is kept tight.
If this vibrates loose, the door will fall open resulting in your ‘treasures'
being scattered along the highway.
Some ‘Threadlocker' (eg Loctite
243) on the screw thread would provide added insurance.
ABC Radio station finder:
Do you arrive at your intended destination then have to spend valuable minutes (or even hours) searching on the van radio
for your favourite ABC local, national, classic
fm or (God forbid) triple J station? Invest in the credit card
size ABC Travellers' Guide ($1 from
ABC shops & centres) which lists those stations for locations throughout
Australia. Pre-tune the radio before
leaving home to save even further holidaying time!
Dry locker:
For a quicker getaway, join the two ends
of your water hose with a hose-lock
joiner. This prevents water
draining out from the hose in the locker and retains the hose in a
neat coil.
Drip...drip... drip:
Wherever two or more A'vanners gather together, you can guarantee sooner or later,
the subject of condensation comes up.
Condensation usually occurs at sun up after a very cold night, particularly
in humid conditions. Moisture in the air, usually from our breath,
condenses on most metal surfaces and can cause all sorts of problems as water
droplets fall off the roof or, even worse, soak into the wall and floor
surfaces. Experiences vary from "no
problem whatsoever" to horror stories of ruined books and a saturated
video recorder.
A'van Campers suggest leaving open windows and/or
the roof vents, but in our experience the effect on reducing
condensation is marginal. Other solutions vary from "sticking masking tape on all the metal surfaces" (Jim
Wright, 2560), to holidaying in Mudgee
mid-winter, when the condensation promptly freezes on the metalwork
- you can scratch your name in the frost but no drips (not for a while anyway)!
A novel approach has been suggested by Les Walsh
(2448):
The perennial "condensation" problem - solved in
one with a product called
Damp-Rid, available in Coles and (probably) most large supermarkets.
Comes in a box like a milk carton. I've made a small version of
the original container, utilising a small bowl which fits neatly into the top
of a screw-top plastic jar (holes in the bottom of the bowl of course).
When stationary, open the cap and the crystals in the bowl absorb extraneous
water, depositing it in the bottom of the jar. Screw cap on for travelling
(after emptying water from jar). Replace crystals as necessary.
Tight wheelnuts:
A member recently had the tyres on his car replaced at a ‘prominent' tyre outlet
in Fyshwick. The following morning the (cold) tyre pressures were 38 psi
all round (should have been 29 psi front, 26 psi
rear). The car manufacturer specifies the wheel nut torque at
90 newton metres. The actual
torque on all the wheel nuts was greater than
160 newton metres (maximum on the member's torque wrench), and it
would have been impossible to remove the wheel nuts on the roadside with the
tools normally carried for that purpose. Over stressing of the wheel nut
studs was also quite likely.
On raising these matters with the tyre supplier, the response was less than convincing. The moral of the
story is to ensure you will get professional service before deciding who will
work on your car (or A'van), and try to slacken
the wheelnuts as soon as you get home rather than finding out that
you cannot remove them when you have a puncture on the roadside.
A'van Al-Ko wheel alignment:
Al-Ko (manufacturers of the suspension
on A'vans) advise that if re-alignment is necessary, the whole assembly has to be removed from the A'van and returned to one of
its Service Agents (see listing below) the for re-building.
If the suspension is still under warranty the re-build will be free but the owner will have to pay delivery costs to &
from the agent. If out of warranty, the owner will also have
to pay the re-build costs which amount to many hundreds of dollars.
Owner experience is that some A'van dealers are
prepared to negotiate with Al-Ko over costs for warranty units.
Eddie Houghton (2611) tells us that
Canberra Truck Align in Queenbeyan
can re-align the suspension in-situ
and at considerably less cost than
having it re-built. The difference is that parts of the suspension are
re-aligned using hydraulic jacks
instead of using shims as in a re-build. The choice is yours!
AL-KO Service Agent Listing
We have been advised that AL-KO
(manufacturers of the electric brakes/hubs and suspension system fitted to most
A'vans) have closed their service section at Hallam and have provided a one page
list (as below) of some of the recommended service centres in some states - no
doubt other accredited service people also exist.
The major Australia wide recommendation appears to be ABS Stores, which are located in
most capital cities and major towns.
| State |
Town/Suburb |
Company |
Address |
Phone |
Agent/Contact |
| All States |
--- |
ABS Stores |
Nearest Store |
132-271 |
--- |
| NSW |
Albury, 2640 |
Albury Brake & Clutch Centre |
288 Kiewa St |
(02) 6041-4733 |
--- |
| NSW |
Albury, 2640 |
Murray Fab Engineering |
234 North Road |
(02) 6041-4688 |
--- |
| NSW |
Griffith, 2680 |
MIA Caravans & Trailers |
74 Willandra Ave |
(02) 6964-2611 |
Jayco |
| NT |
Winnellie, 0820 |
Darwin & Winnellie Brake Centre |
31 Winnellie Rd |
(08) 8947-0069 |
(Mark) |
| NT |
Winnellie, 0820 |
We'reabout Engineering |
Lot 1732, Mataram St |
(08) 8947-3088 |
(Darren) |
| NT |
Stuart Park, 0820 |
Muffler City |
26 Stuart Highway |
(08) 8981-4406 |
(Bob) |
| NT |
Katherine, 0850 |
Neil Engineering |
Gorge Rd, The Rocks |
(08) 8972-1241 |
(Noel) |
| SA |
Cavan, 5094 |
SA Trailers & Chassis Equip |
136 Port Wakefield Rd |
(08) 8262-7170 |
--- |
| SA |
Holden Hill, 5088 |
Electric Brake Specialists |
14 Braeside Ave |
(08) 8263-0733 |
--- |
| SA |
Port Augusta |
Mike's Mobile Repairs |
(Mobile) |
(08) 8641-1010 |
--- |
| TAS |
Glenorchy, 7010 |
Auto Brake Service Tas |
17 Farley St |
(03) 6273-1744 |
--- |
| TAS |
Moonah, 7009 |
King Trailer Industries P/L |
5-9 Florence St |
(03) 6228-0317 |
--- |
| TAS |
Somerset, 7322 |
Austins Caravans & Trailers |
Bass Highway |
(03) 6435-2643 |
A'van |
| VIC |
Bairnsdale, 3875 |
John Anderson's Caravans |
481-483 Princes Highway |
(03) 5152-2510 |
Repairs/Service |
| VIC |
Ballarat, 3350 |
John & Catherine Davis Great Outdoors |
217-231 Learmouth Rd |
(03) 5339-3072 |
--- |
| VIC |
Bayswater, 3153 |
Hardings Caravan Services P/L |
6 The Nook |
(03) 9729-8477 |
--- |
| VIC |
Campbellfield, 3061 |
Able Caravan Repairs |
Fact 2, 281 Rex Road |
(03) 9303-9677 |
--- |
| VIC |
Cobram, 3644 |
Peter Ennals Cobram Caravans |
Broadway Street |
(03) 5872-2333 |
Regal/Compass/Colt |
| VIC |
Hamilton, 3300 |
Albie Tully & Son |
129-131 French St |
(03) 5572-1353 |
--- |
| VIC |
Metropolitan Melbourne |
Max Evans (Fits Brake Controllers) |
Mobile |
0408-398-558 |
--- |
| VIC |
Richmond, 3121 |
Richmond Brake & Clutch |
Swan Street |
(03) 9429-3155 |
--- |
| VIC |
Thomastown, 3074 |
D & I Caravans Maintenance |
52-54 Commercial Drive |
(03) 9465-6122 |
(Dale) |
| VIC |
Wodonga, 3690 |
Wodonga Brake & Clutch |
193 Melbourne Rd |
(02) 6024-7155 |
--- |
| WA |
Bayswater, 6053 |
Trailer Parts P/L |
4 Katanning St |
(08) 9279-5777 |
--- |
| WA |
Belmont, 6104 |
Ken Peachey Caravans |
194 Campbell Street |
(08) 9277-1381 |
--- |
| WA |
Maddington, 6109 |
Advance Caravan Repairs & Hire |
37 Eva Street |
(08) 9493-2771 |
Jayco |
| WA |
Osborne Park, 6017 |
Coromal Caravans |
7 Walters Drive |
(08) 9445-1911 |
--- |
| WA |
Welshpool, 6106 |
Caravan Parts/Camec WA |
129 Welshpool Rd |
(08) 9350-5898 |
--- |
A'van wheel bearing adjustment:
A'vans are fitted with AL-KO electric
braked axles in which the bearing hub is not a separate item but is an integral part of the brake drum. AL-KO
recommend brakes and bearings be inspected by an AL-KO Agent every 10,000 Km or at 12 month intervals. Grease
stains on the wheel often are an indication of incorrect adjustment or impending
failure.
The following note on wheel bearing
adjustment (attributed to Lockheed) may be of interest:
"Wheel bearings must neither be too slack nor
too tight. Either condition results in excessive wear leading
to premature failure. Inspect the cones and rollers for pitting and/or
wear (if so, replace), repack the bearing with a
high temperature bearing grease before replacing the drum/hub on the
axle spindle.
Pre-load the spindle nut to a torque or 40 N-m,
then back off the nut 180 degrees, then forward 90 degrees. Fit
a new cotter pin in the nut slot nearest to the spindle hole. Check that
no looseness can be felt by gripping
and rocking the drum top to bottom. If looseness can be felt, tighten nut to the next slot and repeat until
no looseness can be felt. Re-fit wheel to drum and repeat the looseness
check by gripping and rocking the wheel top to bottom. If looseness can
be felt under this condition, remove wheel and tighten nut again to the next
slot. Repeat as necessary. Road test and repeat the looseness check after (say) 100 Km."
Wheel bearings are generally very reliable,
particularly if serviced regularly as recommended. However, bearings have
been known to fail catastrophically. Carrying a spare set of bearings and a grease seal can mean you are
either able to fix it yourself or they can be given to a local mechanic for
fixing. Either way you are back on the
road again a lot quicker than otherwise! If you are really
paranoid, consider carrying a spare drum c/w
grease packed bearings which can be interchanged with the failed unit
very quickly at the roadside. (A replacement drum with bearings cost
around $110) When buying spare bearings or a drum, it is suggested your
existing unit is taken as a sample to
ensure the spares are interchangeable. From experience, it appears
bearings fitted to A'vans are not always identical.
A'van Levelling Aid:
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If you are particularly sensitive to your A'van
not being level from side to side (some travelling companions are
known to be obsessive about this), A'vanner Richard Giblin (2550) has come up with a solution which makes
leveling the A'van side to side particularly easy.
A bob weight hanging from the centre
of the towel rail and a couple of marks directly under each other on the
bulkhead is all that it takes. By watching the bob weight and marks
through the rear window, move the vehicle to align the bob weight and the marks.
Simple solutions are always the best!
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Neat cross levelling indicator
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Extension Cord Coupling:
Extension cords are a necessary evil
at caravan parks. It doesn't matter how long the cable is on your A'van,
there will be occasions where it is just not long enough. Using an
extension cord seems to be the answer ...but this too is not without problems.
The connection can be inadvertently separated when walking past, leaving
you without mains power to your A'van, or even worse, starting a grass fire if
the disconnection is not total. If it is raining, water can find it's
way between the pins which is likely to trip off the power.
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The solution is to physically lock
together the interconnection, and to weatherproof the joint. The Clipsal 437PR/SR (available from electrical
wholesalers), when properly fitted, provides such protection. The 437PR (plug ring) is fitted to the van cord
plug, and the 437SR (socket ring) to
the cord socket. For those van parks having newer power outlets, the
437PR will screw directly to those outlets providing a firmer mechanical
connection than when relying on the plug pins alone.
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Clipsal 437PR/SR weatherproof threaded coupling
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The yellow HPM D107 Cord Safety Lock,
readily available from outlets such as Bunnings, does physically lock together
the coupling but it is not weatherproof. If you are using one of these,
wrapping a plastic bag around the joint is better than nothing.
Last update 25 February 2008
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Disclaimer: The views expressed are those of the
author, and are not necessarily
those of any other organisation
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