Rob's rust-free alfa page - guaranteed

There are 3 screws, 2 of which aim the lamp. The screw near my hand (ie top and inside) holds the lamp in place. The outer top and lower screws adjust the beam, so don't move 'em, or if you must move 'em at least count your turns accurately and screw them back the same number. A spring clip also holds the outer, top adjusting screw in place. Yes, you must unclip that. You then pivot the unit gently out from the body and up. There's a "prong" on the unit that fits into a hole behind the lower screw. It locates the headlamp unit in place. Job done!

Labels: GTV, Headlamp, Tipo 116

OK, I got it out and got the rubber boot off as well. The boot was tough to shift and I was worried about tearing the "tabs" that I pulled on. Make sure it goes back on properly, to keep the weather out.

3 screws matter. Top left screw (left as in the picture) holds everything in place. Top right adjusts (or aims, if you prefer) the headlamp, as does the bottom screw. Don't move these, or if you do ensure you set then as they were. There's a clip on the top-right screw that holds the lamp. And the bottom screw conceals a hole into which the lamp unit sits via a locating "prong".  

It's the lowbeam that blew, the centre single-spade connector. The other connector is for the parking light. I changed that 10 years ago so it should be fine ;-)

Labels: GTV, Headlamp, Tipo 116

Just before annual registration time, of course. It's a common and simple task, really, but also it's the first time in 10 years So I had to remember all over again how to do it... it's clear that you can't access it from behind, so it must come off from the front.

So here are a few pics on the subject of removing and replacing a 1982 GTV (Aussie spec) halogen headlamp. Bear in mind this is a low beam unit with parking light - not a sealed beam. I think the sealed beam unit fits on and is aimed in the same way though.

Labels: GTV, Headlamp, Tipo 116

The GTV is running fine... it did a massive 10km today in fact, purring like a large grey kitten. But in the (now distant, let's keep it that way) past it has on occasion failed to proceed. Typically this would happen in dark confined places like the tunnel under Sydney Harbour; or famously after a long trip to Queenland and back. It ran faultlessly for almost 4,000km and then refused to start once back in Sydney. Sigh.

So here's a similar quote from an Aussie pro-bike-racing Tour de France green jersey winner and Maserati owner, Baden Cooke: "It kept losing power. I was coming into Milan, on the freeway. I know what to do when it happens; you have to turn it off and turn it back on again," he spoke with some concern. The issue was his dark green Maserati, but the automotive ailment is similar to the leg problems he has had for the last two seasons.

I'd check the relays, mate. By the way, when the trusty 4-cylinder engine died under the harbour I switched the ignition off and back on and started it again in gear. I was on the downhill section but nearing the bottom, so I still had some momentum. It did give me a moment's slight panic, yes.

Labels: Baden Cooke, GTV, Maserati

I think you've seen this, but here it is again... Amaroo Park... nice racing GTV. Here it is apexing at what I call 'Volvo corner', the hard right into the short 'main' straight before the uphill to the blind left hander into 'The Loop'. But where is it now?

Labels: Amaroo, GTV, race cars

What doesn't go wrong with any mechanical device? Anyway, here are some tips on what I have found to be true for me... speaking only of Tipo 116 Alfettas, and especially 2.0 GTVs...

1. Rust - all steel cars will rust, but especially check near the wheelwells, lifting plastic bits, mudguards and what-not to see inside, where water, mud and gunk will accumulate.
2. Rust again - look under all plastic bits, especially under the doors, and along the firewall (pull off that long strip of plastic that protects the edge - yes, that bit, under the bonnet)
3. Rust never sleeps - if your have aircon your battery is in the boot - so look for rust around the battery box as acid can spill given the way you drive...
4. Rust in the tailgate - yes, it can happen here too
   
5. Rust under the rubber seals around all windows
6. And the floorpan, just in case, as a water leak can mean a rusty pan under the carpet
7. Now that we have rust out of the way, check the oil level. Phew.
8. Now all other fluids - those hydraulic brake and clutch seals can leak, so look for leaks, drips, stains, low levels in reservoirs...
9. And the brakes themselves... look for wear and tear, warped rotors (especially the inboard rears) and - again - leaks
10. And the "doughnuts" or "guibos". Chock it safely and get under and look for cracks in these rubber couplings in the drivetrain, or drive it and feel the vibration from an out-of-balance propshaft (it's turning at engine speed so vibration is a balance issue)
11. And at the front we have the engine... nice... but keep watching for oil leaks
12. And rattly chains in the 4 cylinder, or old belts and worn tensioners in the 6
13. And frayed wires - I had one shorting out in the rev sensor in the distributor (which took a while to figure out)
14. And blown fuses
15. And worn switchgear - clean the contacts in the multi-purpose wand if your lights are misbehaving (like your parkers disappear or come and go on a whim)
    
16. And of course the old "my hazard switch stuck on" trick - clean it or swap it for a new one, they just stick on and flatten the battery
17. And the gearbox is up the back, so look for fluid leaks there too. Yes, 2nd gear always crunches, that's why we double declutch.
18. And anything else that looks wrong, like ride height because someone has rotated the torsion bars too far...
19. And if you are keen the endless winding window winders (if you have 'em) will one day stop winding and the window will drop into the door... take the inside door handle off, then the trim panel...

Labels: Alfa, Alfetta, GTV, repairs, Tipo 116