Dress to Impress: Grades of clothing in the manifest of a 10th century Byzantine military expedition.
Peter Beatson - NVG Miklagard
'The Expedition Against Crete', a manifest of resources gathered for droungarios (Admiral) Gongyles' unsuccessful 949 invasion of the Arab-held island, was incorporated into a dossier of adminstrative material known to us as the De ceremoniis ('Book of Ceremonies'), associated with Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogennitos. 
... these items are brought along for distingushed refugees and for sending to distinguished and powerful foreigners (C, 247-49) ;So this clothing could be used as gifts to obtain the support of notable inhabitants of Crete, as well as to reward soldiers on campaign. Clothing was not only intrinsically valuable but could also have had propaganda value to the Byzantines: by 'wearing their colours', recipients were marked out by a visible sign of allegiance.
2. Garments supplied by the koitōn 
The koitōn supplied a small number of precious outfits. That included -
3. Garments supplied by the eidikon 
The eidikon supplied garments in various qualities, but all apparently of lesser value than those mentioned above. There are 340 of each item of clothing, and (usually) three grades of quality of each item, listed best to least. By cross-referencing the quantities required (Table 1), it is possible to reconstruct 'outfits' which would have been given to each of three ranks of recipient:
Table 1 - Gifts of clothing from the eidikon, aligned according to number and quality (II-45, 236-54).
One hundred and forty men received garments of better quality, of whom a subgroup of 40 got the choicest selection. That included himatia esōphoria with matching leggings, which were presumably not so fine as those given by the koitōn - but still, with a valuation of 7 to 10 nomismata (gold coins), each costs about the annual wage of the average Byzantine soldier or citizen.  A tailored garment valued at 10 nomismata was suitable for a merarchēs (commander of 1,000) from one of the border themes , however it seems more likely that these particular items were not intended for Gongyles' officers, but rather as gifts for the Cretans, as they were tailored in 'Saracen style'.  Oddly, it appears that only these best forty outfits came with belts - perhaps the list only specified belts of significant value , or the other types of garments destined for the lower orders were normally worn ungirdled?
As the Emperor was not present on this Cretan expedition, the rituals described in 'On Imperial Expeditions' for distributing garments to his military commanders and royal attendants were probably not performed.
Constantine VII, Emperor (945-59AD)