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Our first camp on the Simpson Desert was
at Purnie bore, a hot spring, on the
way we saw a family of five dingoes. We chose
The French Line, which was first bulldozed across the approximately
1000 sand dunes in the 1960s by a French oil exploration company,
the other main alternative is The Rig Road, which was capped with
clay to carry the weight of the heavy equipment
needed to drill. We found the dunes
much easier than those of the Canning Stock Route, it may have been
that the base was harder after the wet weather, we are not
sure. Generally they are smaller, but closer together, which keepsyour
speed down.
There were plenty of animal tracks, camel, Donkey,
Dingoe, Kangaroo or Wallaby, we didn't see any but the Dingoes.
We saw some birds new to us, a family of Banded
Lapwing (Plover) several Crimson Chat, a female Red Backed
Kingfisher, and others we were not able to identify.
Poeppels Corner marks the junction of
three states, Queensland, South Australia, and The Northern Territory,
(actually a territory, not a state)
Our next camp was one of the best, in a grove
of Gidgee, on a carpet of wildflowers,
between red sand dunes, made perfect by Hilde and Robin preparing a full
roast of beef with all the trimmings, cooked in the coals of
a great fire, proceeded by a convivial “Happy Hour”.
Big Red is the biggest at 90 metres, and
last sand dune before reaching Birdsville,
it is a real challenge if attacked from the West, taking the “straight
up” route, it took me three goes with our heavily laden Landcruiser,
for those who cant make it that way there are easier routes.
Birdsville is a remote, small town with
a pub, caravan park, store, service station,
police station, air strip and not much more. Once a year 6000 people
flood into town for the famous Birdsville Races, including severalhundred
light aircraft, enormous quantities of beer are consumed! We
left as the crowd was on it's way in, and were not unhappy about it.
The only track open heading South, was the Windorah
Rd, through Cadelga, then Cordillo
Downs, once the largest sheep station in Australia running 38,000 sheep.
The next town was Innaminka with
it’s beautifully rebuilt inland mission building,
great pub, and showers. Our camp on Cullyamurra Waterhole, onhistoric
Coopers Creek was superb.
Access to Coonjie Lakes had been closed
until two days before we arrived, we were
fortunate to see it with so much water. On the way in we saw
some Shields Shrimps, a prehistoric looking small stingray shapedcreature
with a scorpion like tail. They were in shallow mud pools stirred
up by a grader, apparently their eggs lie dormant
in the soil for years until rain turns it
to mud. Strange looking creatures!
Past the Moomba gas fields to Camerons
Corner, the junction of New South Wales,
Queensland, and South Australia.
Then it was home through Tibooburra, Milparinka,
White Cliffs the opal mining town with
it’s great underground motel, then Wilcannia, Cobar, Dubbo again
and home.
We were away for four and a half very good weeks.
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