Cornish Association of New South Wales
I never need an excuse to pack my bags and head over to Cornwall, the mystical land of my ancestors, and this year was 'no exception'! When my good friend, Alan, suggested a 10 day jaunt to the South West of England, I didn't need any prompting . He had recently confirmed his link to Cornwall, through his mother's family, the EYRE's of Landrake and Lanivet. With Cornish ancestry on both sides of my family, there were plenty of towns and villages to visit, on our fairly hectic itinerary.
Beautiful scenery along the South Devon coast, after leaving Exeter, with the magnificent Cathedral looming large over the city. Followed the Exe River, through the seaside resorts of Dawlish and Teignmouth, as we continued on to Newton Abbot. We could see the lively fishing town of Exmouth, across the tidal river flats, with its colourful fishing boats dotted along the coast. Excitement grew, as we arrived into Plymouth , with the Tamar Bridge gleaming majestically in the early evening sunshine. It was 'all stops' to Truro, once we crossed the Tamar River (the 'modern' border between Devon and Cornwall). Saltash, Liskeard, Lostwithiel, to name but a few of the small stations, flashed past as we continued to our destination, Truro, the major 'county town' of Cornwall, and home to one of Britain's modern cathedrals. The red cliffs of Sth Devon had given way to the lush green valleys along Cornwall's South coast. In the distance I could see Mt Edgcumbe, the ancestral homeland of my mother's CHAPELL family, with the pretty fishing village of Cawsand, on the Rame peninsula, hidden from view.
The St Agnes Hotel (tel: 01872 552307) had been my base, whilst researching my family history in Cornwall, for the last six years, as it has become more of a 'home away from home', whilst offering 'bargain priced' accommodation at £32.50, single per night. All rooms were well-appointed, with en-suite facilities, and a hearty breakfast included in the tariff. Both the bar and the restaurant were THE most popular places in the village, with locals and tourists alike. We were very lucky to be able to squeeze into the busy restaurant, for dinner, where Emma and her team dazzled us with their culinary expertise. Ben was keen to advise us with our selection of wine, which included many excellent reds from the New World and Australia (nothing like a 'piece of home' when travelling!)
After a busy day at the CRO we caught the local branch line train from Truro to Falmouth, the coastal 'fortress town'. It was a pleasant thirty minute journey through the lush valley, along the River Fal, passing through the villages of Perranwell and Penryn. Falmouth is a bustling thriving fishing village, dominated by the Castle, which overlooks the river mouth. Such a scenic part of the country, looking across the river Fal, to St Mawes, connected to Falmouth by a regular ferry service, until the early evening. Walked along the busy winding main street, peeking into the tiny King Charles the Martyr parish church, where my 2x Great Grandfather, Simon Jory, had married his first wife, a couple of years before emigrating to Victoria with his second wife, Caroline Jory. Even though it was an unbelievably mild Autumn evening, we opted to sit inside a local pub, where we enjoy a delicious baked seafood dinner. The train and bus service whisked us back to St Agnes, depositing us back at our hotel in good time for 'last call'!
As it was Harvest Festival week, most of the village churches were open for worship, and their interiors festooned with sheafs of wheat and posies of wild flowers. We wandered through the town and up to the St Petroc's Parish church, for a peek inside. Later we walked to the sandy beach, to take in the view across the estuary to the pretty 'trendy' village of Rock, popular with the Etonian and 'young Royals' set. Accommodation was widely available at the many pubs and B&B's, but unfortunately the magnificent Metropole Hotel, perched high above the town, was fully booked that particular weekend. A quick look at the tiny windswept village and parish church at St Merryn, where we met the verger and enquired about a distant family connection.
The following morning, a sunny but blustery Sunday, our trek took us to Tintagel, the legendary home of King Arthur and his courts of Camelot. The 'old Post Office', now fully restored, has become a popular tourist attraction, with its beautiful gardens and 'sturdy' structure renovated to all its 14th century glory. Its 'ye olde' appearance was so out of character with the 21st century! The most popular shop in the village appeared to be the 'Pastie bakery', with mouthwatering aromas emanating from its ovens. Accommodation was available from the many pubs and B&B's or at the eerie hotel on the headland, now a centre for 'spiritualists'. Next stop was the lovely bleak cliffs north of Tintagel, and the small villages of Poundstock, Jacobstow and St Gennys, home to my TREWIN ancestors, in the 14-15th centuries. The parish churches were quite tiny in these villages, but all accessible to the public. Made the steep descent down a winding road, and into the pretty village of Boscastle. A lovely little village, with safe anchorage and a babbling brook, tea rooms and ice cream parlours dominating the tiny centre. Our AA guide book had recommended the 'Wellington Hotel', (tel: 01840 250 202) which was perched on the side of the hill, in many acres of gardens, overlooking the village. We instantly 'fell in love' with the hotel, with its elegance and grace of ensuite rooms, salubrious lounge and popular bar. No hesitation in booking our accommodation there (£35.00 B&B, including breakfast). The restaurant was also recommended, and I can safely say that the hotel deserved its 'star rating'! As it was such a sunny late afternoon, we continued our travels to nearby Crackington Haven, a seaside 'gem', reached by a steep road, down treacherous rugged hills, to the sea. Enjoyed a pastie whilst looking at the spectacular view, at a cafe, managed by a Kiwi lady and her Aussie assistant!
After securing our rooms for the evening we headed out to cross the Tamar, back into Cornwall, at Gunnislake, close to the villages of St Dominic, and Calstock, villages associated with my Prout and Trewin clans. The tiny village of St Dominic, nestled in its idyllic rural setting, was the home of my 3xGt Grandparents, William and Jane Trewin nee Prout, prior to their emigration to Victoria, in the 1850's. I managed to locate Towel farm, their property, as noted on the 1851 census. The Holy Trinity parish church was open to the public, and the graveyard was also visited, to view the rows and rows of headstones associated with my family. A substantial ploughman's lunch was taken at the 'Who'd have thought it' Inn, recommended in the AA guide. The pub afforded magnificent views down the Tamar Valley, as far as Plymouth, way in the distance. Continued on to the village of Landrake, just off the A30, close to Saltash, to view the pretty St Peter's parish church, and well-maintained churchyard.
From Landrake (home to Alan's EYRE family, in the 18th-19th century), we headed towards the 'smart' village of St Germans, to take in the view of the rather quaint St Germanus parish church, and the churchyard, now devoid of any headstones. Originally a Norman Cathedral, the church was rebuilt in 1261. St Germans was a registration district taking in the many villages on the Rame peninsula, associated with my CHAPELL clan. My 3xGt Uncle, Charles Chapell, a veteran of the Battle of Trafalgar, aboard Nelson's flagship, the Victory, was the registrar of Births, Marriages and Deaths, and his signature appears on all the certificates from 1837 until his death in 1865. Our journey took us along the windswept south coast, to Millbrook, and then into my ancestral village of Cawsand (co-joined with Kingsand). Formerly the Devon/Cornwall border ran through the village and a plaque can be seen in the wall, opposite the home of my ancestors. The home of my 3xGt Grandfather, Henry Chapell, the former 'Pilot Boat' pub, stands in Cawsand Square, with its back to the sea, in the tightly packed cluster of houses. The 'Pilot Boat' pub had been in the Chapell family hands until the early 20th century, and had a close connection with the 'smuggling' trade. Today the village is a popular commute, by ferry, from Plymouth's Mayflower Steps, in the Barbican. We visited the tiny St Andrews Church, in the village, and the Parish church dedicated to St Mary and St Julian at Maker, perched high on the cliffs outside the village. The graveyard was dotted with Chapell tombstones!
The church was tucked away down a narrow country lane, as were the churches of St Wenn and Withiel which we also found on our 'ancestral trail'. South towards the ancient capital of Cornwall, Lostwithiel, where we pulled into the 'Royal Oak' Hotel, (tel:01208 872 552) another AA recommended pub, serving excellent meals in the cosy restaurant. Secured rooms for the evening, then raced off to the south coast, to reach the lovely village of Fowey by lunchtime. Ate pasties whilst gazing out over the river, looking upstream to Bodinnick, and the former home of novelist Daphne Du Maurier. Spent an hour touring the boutique 'Old Boat Quay' Hotel, owned by expatriate London 'friends of friends' and currently undergoing a massive renovation. Amazing location, and tastefully decorated rooms, with a 'smart' restaurant, which sadly wasn't yet open to the public for lunch.
Our next stop was the quaint fishing village of Polperro, once a popular 'smugglers retreat'. Tiny, tightly packed houses huddled around the Quay, with inviting pubs enticing patrons in 'for a pint'. Originally we had intended making the 2 hour walk from Polperro to Looe, along the rugged coast, but as it was rapidly approaching dusk, we opted to make the short drive instead. Drove into Looe, situated at the mouth of the River Looe, a short branch line train journey from Liskeard. The village had been the ancestral home of my OLVER and DAN(N) families up until the 20th century, when most headed to Plymouth. Plenty of excellent B&B accommodation in the village, and a myriad of seafood restaurants, supplied by the resident fishing fleet. Headed out of the village, to the small parish of St Martin's, to visit the church where many of my ancestors had worshipped. The church was hidden down a country lane, and quite well-maintained, but sadly closed. Returned to the sleepy town of Lostwithiel, a 'backwater' now, after its former days as county 'capital'. Really pleased with our choice of AA listed accommodation. The inviting low timber ceiling bar area was a welcome sight, after the long day of touring,and the restaurant provided a truly amazing dinner. The Proprietor, Mrs Hine, was the local culinary expert, and, according to the locals, was famous for her pies. Wandered around the village in the evening, with the only muted sounds coming from a couple of pubs. The village is the 'jumping off point' for nearby National Trust property, Landhydrock House, which sadly we didn't visit.
However the beaches of St Ives really do 'take your breath away'....with the aquamarine colour of the sea and the shiny clean white sand. The village has become a cultural centre, with the Tate Modern Gallery and the Barbara Hepworth Museum attracting large numbers of visitors. It has traditionally been a 'haunt' of oil and water colour painters, and a 'smart' place to spend the Summer. Our next stop was the small pub at Cripple Ease, called the '' Engine House'', once owned by Robert CURNOW, 3xGt Grandfather of my sister in law, Amy. It was a quaint pub, standing alone, on a bleak country lane, sadly closed until the evening, so we traipsed on to the very tiny parish of Towednack, home of the Curnow clan for many centuries. The 13th century church was closed for electrical renovations, so we explored the churchyard, locating Robert Curnow's grave. Southwards towards St Just, a pretty village with plenty of pubs!, and on to Sennen Cove, for morning tea. Looked out across the flat seas, which becomes quite treacherous with the prevailing winds. It wasn't as blustery as I'd expected at Lands End, where we stopped for the obligatory phone 'opportunity'. Could well picture it would be 'wild and woolly' when Atlantic gales swept in unexpectedly! The sun shone briefly as we looked at the sign giving the 12,000 mile distance to Sydney (pangs of homesickness?). Commercialism had consumed Lands End, with a 'mini theme park' to keep the children occupied.
It was a sad moment when we dropped the rental car back to Hertz at Truro railway station, and boarded the Gt Western Railway's 10.26am service to London's Paddington Station. However, it was blatantly obvious that England's unbelievable late Summer heatwave had come to an end, and the chilly winds were heralding the onset of Autumn 'with a vengeance'! Already the trees had started to shed their auburn and golden foliage, as the last of the Summer sunshine filtered through. We settled back in our plush First Class seats, and watched the sight of Truro Cathedral fade into the distance as we sped toward the Tamar Bridge, and out of Cornwall. But, rest assured, in the words of Arnold Schwarzenegger... "I'll be back''!!
If any of the families mentioned in the travelogue are of family history interest to you, please email the CANSW Webmaster who will put you in touch with Tony Hill.
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Booking for Cornwall
There were numerous ways to travel to Cornwall. Those connected with the Internet have access to many road, rail and coach transportation options, also to a myriad of hotel, guest house and B&B accommodation. The British Tourist Authority in Sydney (tel: (02) 9201 4400) also can provide literature on travel and accommodation, but 'out of season' it is rare to experience any problems finding a place to 'lay your head down', even in the smallest of villages! The option to find accommodation, without prebooking, makes for an interesting alternative to a package deal, as there are plenty of 'interesting' places to seek out. We used the AA guide ''The Pub Guide, 2004'' to make up a basic itinerary, using the recommended pubs and restaurants listed in this publication. Car hire (our transport option) was 'quick and easy', and available in most large towns, usually located at railway terminals and coach depots.
London to Truro
Our ten day journey began at London's Paddington Station, with our prebooked (7 day Advanced Purchase rail ticket, available on the Internet) First Class seats in the ''quiet carriage'' (NO mobile phones allowed...heaven!!!) Great Western Railways have a wide range of fares from which to choose. Our First Class ticket was as cheap as a 'pay on the day' standard class ticket. Quieter, more comfortable seating, plus complimentary tea/biscuits from our steward, made the 5 hour journey to Truro really enjoyable. Moments after leaving London we were hurtling at 125mph through the lush green countryside. The rolling hills of Dorset gave way to the flat Somerset fields, as we pulled into Taunton, our second stop, after Reading, in the late afternoon sunshine (yes,the ''Indian Summer'' continued throughout our trip).
The Cornish Travelogue begins - Truro to St Agnes
Our base, for the first two nights, was the St Agnes Hotel, a twenty minute 'local Truronian bus ride' from Truro, where I had befriended the publicans, Ben and Emma Hough. The Truronian bus (£1.90 single) departed from Truro Railway Station,and deposited us on the doorstep of the hotel, in the pretty little village of St Agnes. The ancient parish church, founded in 1327, stood floodlit across the road from the hotel, nestled in between the tiny graveyard with its mostly illegible headstones. St Agnes consists of the old 'Church town', a cluster of shops, cafes and pubs, around the church, and reaching as far as the seaside cottages, down on the rugged Atlantic coast. A few pubs with excellent accommodation, nestle in a cove, at the base of the steep road, from 'Church Town', where chalets are also available. For a small village, there were at least four pubs from which to choose, each with its own 'character'. However, we were quite content to 'wine and dine' in the convivial atmosphere of the St Agnes Hotel.
Family History Searches at the CRO
I had prearranged two days of research at the Country Records Office Truro (CRO) by email (cro@cornwall.gov.uk or tel: 01872 323129), with the incredibly knowledgeable staff. Bookings are essential, especially over the Summer months, when hordes of 'colonials' invade the Records Office, seeking out their ancestral origins. The facilities include original and microfiche copies of all Cornish parish registers, Wills pre 1858, manorial records, census returns 1841-1891 and various other aids to assist researchers. No payment is required to undertake research at the CRO, but photocopying and the viewing of some census returns are at a nominal charge. Identification, with driver's licence or passport, is the only prerequisite. I concentrated on my TREWIN and JORY families, with a great deal of success!
We Moved to Truro Next
At the conclusion of our second day of research, we moved into Truro, and checked in to the elegant 'Royal Hotel' (tel: 01872 270 345 or email: reception@royalhotelcornwall.co.uk) close to the busy city centre, in Lemon Street. Rooms started at £55.00, including a substantial breakfast, and were more than adequate, with en-suite facilities. Their bar, 'Mannings', was a popular pre and post dinner 'haunt' of the local theatrical troupe, and offered an amazing array of wines 'by the glass'. Dinner was a real treat at ''Piero's" restauraer, a popular Italian restaurant near Lemon Quay, with excellent service and outstanding menu. No time to dillydally, as we headed to Truro railway station, to pick up our compact Hyundai 'jeep' from Hertz. We had pre-arranged car hire, with the office at Truro, and all went smoothly (hire can also be booked 'over the Net', or through airline offices, who can often offer extremely competitive rates).
The 6-day Driving Jaunt Begins
Driving in Cornwall isn't THE easiest pursuit for Aussies, unused to the width of the 'B roads', accommodating single lane traffic in many instances! Hedgerows compound the difficult driving conditions, with blind bends and farmers' tractors providing unnecessary hitches! The A30 motor way stretches the length of Cornwall, from the Tamar Bridge to Penzance and Lands End, which was our 'road of choice' on our 600 mile 6-day jaunt through the county.
Lanivet, Lamorrick, Bodmin and on to Padstow
Our first destination was the tiny village of Lanivet, close to the market town of Bodmin, to visit the lovely St Nivet parish church. Alan was able to view the well-preserved gravestone of his 2xGt Grandfather, Henry EYRE, the local blacksmith, and father of twenty two children! The smithy still stands in the nearby hamlet of Lamorrick, and the owners were kind enough to give permission for photographs to be taken. Our travels took us Northwards, through Bodmin, and to the coastal town of Padstow, on the North coast of Cornwall. It is also the home of Rick Stein's seafood restaurants, world renown for their 'dining experience' (usually fully booked three months in advance!) A popular destination to visit on a weekend, Padstow has an assortment of pubs and the obligatory 'fish and chip shops', with quite a number of pastie shops too. Padstow does have a significance to me. It was the home of my 'lifeboat man' ancestor, Daniel WINSOR, in the 1850's and also my CHAPELL family, until their removal to Cawsand, in the late 1700's.
Onwards to Newquay and Tintagel
Continuing northwards we reached the popular surfing town of Newquay, jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean. This town has been the 'mecca' for Aussies, wanting to try their luck at 'catching a wave'. Unfortunately we found the town to be rather sad, seedy, rundown and home to pinball arcades and 'greasy spoon' cafes. Quite a busy town even 'out of season', with the 'young and not so young' weekend crowd, but no problems in securing accommodation. Our hotel, the 'Trevaunce', was located on the seaside, minutes from the pedestrian 'mall', and the trendy bars. Virtually next door was the 'Walkabout' pub, an Aussie theme pub, drawing a mixed crowd of revellers and serious drinkers'! I'd been recommended, by a Briton I'd met in Rio earlier in the year, to visit the 'Red Lion' pub, at Fistral Beach, a short walk from the town centre. It was definitely THE place to eat, drink, and watch the beach 'scenery', as the pub's restaurant was renowned for service and value. We soon found out that the restaurant was booked 'solid' for three hours on this particular Saturday, and had to dine with meals perched on our laps. The pubs around town were doing a 'roaring trade' as were the Clubs, once the clock struck eleven!
Further north to Bude, Hartland Point and Kilkhampton
Onwards and upwards, travelling to the far North coast of Cornwall, close to the surfing town of Bude, and Hartland Point (with views off to Lundy Island), to visit the sleepy village of Kilkhampton. This town was another ancestral home of my TREWIN ancestors, and the 'final resting place' of many of them! St James Church was the focal point of the village, and had a well-maintained graveyard. Managed to locate the gravestone of my 3xGt Grandfather, Lawrence Trewin, a Yeoman, of 'Burridge', Morwenstow, a neighbouring parish. A couple of pubs lay close to the church, one being the New Inn, which had been in the Trewin family until the early 20th century. We drove to Morwenstow, along ridiculously narrow lanes, bordered by hedgerows, frequently stopping to allow cows to pass, enroute to milking. 'Burridge' farm was not easy to locate, but worth the effort, to see the sturdy homestead, the birthplace of my 'Aussie bound' 2xGreat Grandfather, John Trewin. St Morwenna church, at nearby Morwenstow, was also visited, and was 'open for prayer'.
Boscatle Next Stop and then to St Columb Major
Returned to Boscatle for the evening, to dine at the hotel's excellent restaurant, and listen to the local folk band, before retiring, exhaustedly to our 'plush' rooms. The following morning we clambered over the rocks, past the village 'arts and crafts' shops, to look at the Atlantic, before continuing on our journey. Monday was another warm and sunny day as we set out across the Moors, to the Eastern fringes of the county. Visited the pretty village of St Columb Major, home to my Chapell clan in the 17th/18th century, and looked in at the churchyard of St Columba, in the centre of the village.
Over the Border to Devon and Tavistock
Crossed the Devon border, and rolled into the 'posh' town of Tavistock, once home to my PROUT ancestors. Quite a spectacular town, built of grey stone, with smart shops, elegant hotels and the ruins of the ancient Abbey. Much of the Abbey had been incorporated into St Eustacius church, which housed the many headstones of my Prout ancestors, including those of Samuel and Elizabeth Prout nee DOIDGE, propped up against the church wall. Throwing caution to the wind, we checked in to the magnificent 'Bedford Hotel', (tel:01822 613 221), opposite the parish church, and marvelled at its charm and gentrified interior. Rooms with dinner B&B cost £75, and were worth 'every penny'. Our rooms were well-appointed, modern, and a real 'find' with 'olde worlde' charm, at a reasonable price!
Back to Tavistock and Cornwall Again
Returned to Tavistock in the evening, passing through the little village of Lamerton, and looking in at the tiny parish church, where my Prout ancestors worshipped. Dined at the Bedford Hotel dining room, amid 'olde worlde charm' of this elegant building. The narrow thoroughfares through Tavistock were remarkably quiet, after the 'rush hour'. The following morning we discovered the local Library housed a good deal of local genealogical information, including parish registers and census returns, so were able to potter around there for a couple of hours. A brief stop in Bere Alston churchyard to see the grave of my 3xGt Grandmother, Margaret TREWIN. Onwards we travelled through the village of North Petherwin, to check the graveyard for HARE/EYRE ancestors, for Alan, and made a great 'find'.
Visit to Porthleven, Helston, Sithney, Perranarworthal and back to Truro
Wednesday was a fairly overcast day, the first signs of a break in the unseasonal 'Indian Summer' weather, and a hint of the approaching Autumn. Off to visit Porthleven, the coastal town, close to the Lizard, where my 2xGt Grandmother, Rhoda WINSOR, was born, at the coastguard cottage. The Parish church was locked, and the gravestones were illegible, on the bleak church land, facing out to the wild Atlantic Ocean. Ate lunch at a small pub in the village, seeking shelter from the driving rainstorm, our first sight of rain so far! Continued on the road to Helston, a market town, from where my JORY, RALPH and LANDERYOU ancestors emigrated to Victoria in the 1850's. The spire of the beautiful St Michael's church was visible in the distance, and the churchyard was full of family plots. Meneage Street, a busy thoroughfare, was the home to most of my JORY and RALPH clans, up to the 1940's. A quaint bustling town, filled with interesting shops, ancient pubs and smart homes, many belonging to the TRENGROUSE family, a name synonymous with the invention of the ships safety rescue device. The rain had set in, as we headed into the tiny parish of Sithney, to visit the parish church associated with the MANALLACK family (a friend in Melbourne's clan). Unfortunately the graveyard was a 'jungle', under 6 feet of weeds and ivy, so impossible to locate any graves. At least the church was open, and it was possible to view the font, altar and beautiful stained glass windows. As the weather had 'changed for the worse', we decided to spend another couple of hours at the CRO Truro. The return journey took us through the heavily wooded areas around Perranaworthal, home to another branch of my JORY family. Passed the 'Norway Inn', a pretty AA listed pub, with is colourful window boxes and low ceilings.
St Agnes again, St Ives, St Just, Sennen Cove and Lands End
We'd prebooked our last two nights back at the St Agnes Hotel, and were welcomed back 'to the fold' by Ben and Emma. Before dinner we walked through the village and into the churchyard. Sadly most of the graves were illegible, and greatly weathered. Another spectacular meal, prepared by Emma, of grilled mackerel, grated Stilton, and drizzled with Balsamic vinegar, washed down by a superb Chilean Merlot, completed an excellent day of touring. The following day, Thursday, started with rainy skies but cleared to a breezy morning,as we headed out along the A30 towards Lands End. Hurtled though Redruth, and Camborne, enroute to the spectacular beaches in Cornwall's NW coast. Motored into THE pretty resort of St Ives, with its 'smart' hotels and B&B accommodation. The Portminster Beach cafe had been recommended to us, but we 'pressed on'. Being used to our glorious Aussie beaches, I am usually unimpressed by great expanses of sandy beaches around the World (with the exception of Rio De Janeiro).
Mousehole, Marazion, St Michael's Mount, St Agnes and sadly back to London
Continued around the headland to the tiny fishing village of Mousehole (yes,its REAL name!), a once thriving fishing community, now reliant on tourists. Headed into Penzance, a bustling market town, with an endless line of pubs and cafes drifting off towards Marazion, and a stepping off point for the majestic St Michaels's Mount. As the tide was in, we were unable to walk across the causeway, to the 'mystical Mount', so returned to Truro, where more research was undertaken. Back into St Agnes, tired but happy to have completed out quest to visit all the major parts of Cornwall. We had both managed to visit the majority of our ancestral villages, enjoyed excellent hospitality and sampled the local culinary delights, including scones and clotted cream, pasties, locally caught fresh seafood, and succulent lamb, not to mention the tangy cheeses, saffron cake, locally brewed Newquay Bitter and the potent 'scrumpy' (farmer's apple cider, which many pubs will only sell half pints, because of its alcohol content!).